Erby

If you need ammunition, contact the manufacturer, show them your pictures and ask them if they will honor the warranty. I've done that a couple of times for clients. The answer is always NO. I'd bet this one's answer is also NO!. Get the manufacturer to tell the builder it's time for a new one. Ask the builder to replace it with a NEW unit.

John: I think what you are looking for to get you started is certification as a: Radon Measurment Provider (RMP) - Standard Services NEHA-NRPP - National Environmental Health Association's National Radon Proficiency Program http://www.radongas.org/radon_measureme ... ards.shtml or Radon Measurement Technician (RMT) NRSB - National Radon Safety Board http://nrsb.org/nrsb-s1.htm Those are the basic certifications to get you started doing residetial radon measurement serivces. Education providers must be accepted by whichever of those two bodies you want certification from. Might also want to check out AARST - American Association of Radon Scientists & Technologists http://www.aarst.org/ That ought to be enough to get you going.

Whoa, HOT STUFF Phillip! But, on the side? Where's your fidelity. John obviously feels it's better to give crap than receive it? (where the hell did THIS thread go wrong!)

Ya gotta learn to Google, John. http://mlis.state.md.us/asp/web_statutes.asp?gen&8-305 Or you can go to the Maryland State General Assembly website http://mlis.state.md.us Click on the "Maryland Statues" which takes you further down the page to http://mlis.state.md.us/#stat Which has the link to the code but it is off the state website onto Michie/Lexis. OR you can just call the MARYLAND RADON HOTLINE, 1-800-767-7236 Google is a wonderful thing if you learn how to use it!

John, you asked: So, cert this and license that, does that mean that a person does it correctly? Hell no. Certification and licensing only mean that "at one point in time" the person proved a minimal level of compentency. BUT, if you're going to sell it, it sells better. AND the training will make you feel more confident in your reporting. I tell my customers that if a state license was such a great and wonderful thing they wouldn't have been cursing at all the state licensed drivers on their way to work that day.

Gotta be careful with the freezers PHillip. They'll give you a bad case of blue b*&^s. I don't have any personal experience but I hear they don't put out so well.

I R a Radon Tester cause the place I buy my stuff says I R. Might want to take a look at the Maryland law "Maryland Environment Code § 8-305: And we spend how much time criticizing agents for quoting prices of home inspections??????

Just what I need to do. Hang out with a bunch of whack jobs dating furnaces and claiming "my furnace is hotter than your furnace"! What will y'all be dating next??? Probably water heaters!

I've solved my own problem several times just by explaining it to someone else. Who knows why it happens, but I'll bet a lot of others have also.

My attorney advice disagrees with yours. Your corporation is legally responsible for the actions of the corporation. YOU are legally reponsible for YOUR actions. i.e, If I am a multi inspector corporation and one of my inspectors screws up. The corporation can be sued. That inspector can be sued personally. If I am single inspector corporation and I screw up. The corporation can be sued. I can be sued personally because I was the one who screwed up. Any one else???

Heating the iron at the same time. Now that's efficiency.

No need to go to page 27. There's a picture of it at the top right of the front page. Course 27 has the specs. Thanks.

Thanks, Mike. Haven't seen em around here much. Bill. They are black. Some kinda braided plastic around them. I've seen the stainless steel ones, just hadn't seen these before. No labels. Brandon: Ain't no "appear" on that one. It just runs uphill to the drain without any support across the back wall. Just thought y'all'd enjoy shaking your head at that one. BUT, it does have only the four elbows manufacturer's want in the drain line. Erby Looking for the postive (well, not really)

Anybody ever see this type of hose connection as an approved method for connecting water heater to plumbing system. Next door neighbor was a plumber who could build anything. Image Insert: 47.94 KB Image Insert: 42.62 KB Image Insert: 54.26 KB

I'd bet on a frame for an old TV antennae. Only difference between the one I grew up with and that one is that ours was a 2x4 and lath with chicken wire spread across it, the antennae wire was hooked directly to the chicken wire.

With all the hills around here, I see them all the time. Pour a footer 25" below grade, build a CMU wall to desired height, fill it with gravel, pour the slab, build the house. They are almost always parge coated and a couple of years down the road, the parge always starts cracking and looking uglier than if they just left the CMU exposed.

I have. Works well. It also works well on ceramic tile (on the floor). Bit more difficult when it's on the wall.

That's the kind of stuff that led to the death of this little boy.

There's good and bad in every field, Sodapop. Your's, mine, realtors, mechanics, etc. I like hanging out with the good ones who know there's things they don't know and try to learn. That's why I'm here!

Don't know who you've been talking to locally SodaPop, but I'm keeping pretty busy. You musta been hanging out with that doom and gloom crowd again. Stay away from them. It's pretty rosy here locally. PS: When you gonna buy me that cup of coffee? I might even cheer you up a bit!

Biggest problem I find is that electricians who've been master electricians for 20 years have spent all that time working on the newer subdivision homes don't know squat about aluminum wiring, Federal Pacific Electric panels, or knob & tube wiring and are more than happy to share their ignorance by telling people none of the above issues are really a problem.

I knew there was a reason I didn't buy them $1000.00 air sampling machines when I got "certified" to do mold testing. Never used it, don't even remember who gave the class, but glad I didn't buy it. Here's what I tell people about mold: +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ What may be mold or mildew or fungal growth is present in ___________ . It may be in other areas also. I don't know. The identification of the organism(s) and characterization of a health hazard are beyond the scope of this home inspection. Mold, mildew, fungus and other toxic organisms commonly occur in areas that show evidence of, or have the potential for, leaking, moisture intrusion and/or inadequate ventilation. Any area or item exhibiting such conditions can be a health hazard to some people. My basic recommendation is: The moisture source needs to be controlled and the growth might need to be cleaned up. Who does that is your decision. However, review the below information and recommendations before deciding on how to deal with this issue. If, after reviewing the below information, you have additional questions or want further investigation, I recommend that you contact an Environmental Health Specialist, usually listed in the yellow pages under "Environmental Consultants" or "Mold & Mildew Services" to advise you. Whomever you chose, to avoid a conflict of interest, select a consultant that investigates, designs and oversees remediation plans but does not perform, or have a financial interest in performing the actual remediation. Remember to closely investigate the consultant’s qualifications and experience. There is a lot of controversy over the issue of mold and mold testing. As the following websites state, it is not necessary to invest resources in expensive laboratory analysis and money spent on testing is not available for cleanup. The EPA does not recommend measuring airborne fungal levels. The EPA publication "A Brief Guide to Mold, Moisture, and Your Home" states "Is sampling for mold needed? In most cases, if visible mold growth is present, sampling is unnecessary." http://www.epa.gov/iaq/molds/moldguide.html The EPA also says "You should be aware that although a substance may look like mold, a positive determination of whether it is mold or not can be made only by an expert and may require laboratory analysis for final confirmation. For about $50, some microbiology laboratories can tell you whether a sample sent to them on a clear strip of sticky household tape is mold or simply a substance that resembles it." ( http://www.epa.gov/mold/moldresources.html ) The CDC says "You do not need to know the type of mold growing in your home, and CDC does not recommend or perform routine sampling for molds. No matter what type of mold is present, you should remove it. Since the effect of mold on people can vary greatly, either because of the amount or type of mold, you can not rely on sampling and culturing to know your health risk. Also, good sampling for mold can be expensive, and standards for judging what is and what is not an acceptable quantity of mold have not been set. The best practice is to remove the mold and work to prevent future growth." ( http://www.cdc.gov/mold/dampness_facts.htm ) You may want to identify and review additional sources of information. ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

What $300.00 tester do you use that is supposed to detect bootlegs but doesn't? Probably missed a bunch of them with the old houses here!

Did you take a close look at the structural wood under the windows. Everytime I've seen the rowlock canted up or the window appearing to have dropped behind the brick, usually with cracks visible at the top of the window and a sunken sill behind the brick, I've found rotten sill plates, rim joists, etc in the crawl space. Image Insert: 153.97 KB Image Insert: 152.35 KB

For those who haven't beeen thru the modular versus manufactured debate before: http://homebuying.about.com/cs/modulare ... rhomes.htm