Erby

Most newer openers won't work without the optical sensors input. It is MUCH easier to align them when they are only 16" or 24" apart than it is when they are the full width of the garage door apart. (Install sarcasm emoticon here) The BEST is to mount them on the same side of the rafter or truss the the sensors almost touching. They'll never give you alignment problems there.

Yer just to dang pickie, Hom. Them there holes in that metal box thingy are what's used to hold the wires semi-securely in place. Better use than staples.

I'm looking to buy one but confused over which of the six shown is best suited for the Home Inspector's needs. Any ideas, folks. http://www.idealindustries.com/tm/SureTest.nsf

Brian, it happens. All you can do is advise your client. The client has to make the final decision. Here's what I tell my clients about the disagreement issue. DIFFERING OPINIONS Don't be surprised when a contractor or real estate agent says something is okay when I said it isn't. Home inspectors are generalists conducting an essentially visual inspection and recommending specialists in the appropriate area for specific repairs. Some specialists, and other people, will disagree with my opinions. I always defer to specialists opinions, since as a matter of law, they are supposed to know more than I do. I've put my opinions in writing. I feel you should have those who disagree put their opinions in writing also. Ask them to include their license number, if applicable, and guarantee that the item is safe or OK to operate as it is. If they refuse to do so, you need to establish what weight to give each opinion. The one time I am aware that this happened, a plumber said a water heater was safe and would continue to operate OK when I said it wasn't and wouldn't. When he was asked to put it in writing he refused. The water heater was subsequently replaced. And here's a photo showing why two neutrals under one screw isn't a real good idea. Don't know the photo source. Show it to the client, electricians, AHJ. Download Attachment: BurnedNeutralsandBus2.jpg 92.51 KB 408.21 Grounded Conductor Terminations. Each grounded conductor shall terminate within the panelboard in an individual terminal that is not also used for another conductor. Exception: Grounded conductors of circuits with parallel conductors shall be permitted to terminate in a single terminal if the terminal is identified for connection of more than one conductor.

It's never to late for a heart felt apology.

I think you're dang smart to let your customer know you needed to do some research. Rusting metal expands. As it expands it cracks concrete, brick veneer and just about anything placed around it. Gotta stop the rust before repairing the concrete. I agree with Donald about it sluffing off new concrete until the rusting is stopped. Google "corroded steel in concrete"

Age codes are usually buried in the Serial Number, NOT the model number. That's where you need to look for age.

T. What's your opinion regarding the white wire used as hot (without being permanently reidentified as such) on the bottom right breaker.

I'm in Lexington quite frequently unfortunately I inspect most Saturdays. We'll try to set something up soon.

I don't know the specific answer to your question, and don't have my code book handy to look it up, but it does provide me the opportunity to share more information than I ever wanted to know about brick construction details. Brick Industry Association Web Site Technical notes. http://www.bia.org/html/frmset_thnt.htm

Literally, everywhere! But then, some Louisville guys are Reds insead of Blues. We'll have to wait and see which side of the fence Troy falls on.

Corners, Does that mean you no longer get cold feet????

OK, so I had to fix my cookie setting before I could upload photos. This was back on the 31st of May, 2004. Download Attachment: Slightly different view. 48.02 KB Download Attachment: The Key! 67.26 KB Download Attachment: Other Gunk 43.65 KB Download Attachment: DSC09995.JPG 53.32 KB I wonder why my buyer decided to move on.

I thought I recognized that photo. Here's some more photos of that same crawl space. It's located in Marion County, Kentucky. Good reasons for PPE. How'd you get the photo, Mike? I've had the original posted on my cockmamie photos page since last year and sent it to several "mold experts" to see if they could identify it. This guy finally helped the most, but still couldn't come up with a specific name for it, other than some type of brown rot, just based on the photo. Fungal & Decay Diagnostics, LLC Harold H. Burdsall, Jr., Ph.D. 9350 Union Valley Road Black Earth, WI 53515-9798 Phone: 608-767-3930 FAX: 608-767-3920 Email: burdsall@fungaldecay.com Web Site: www.fungaldecay.com

I'd beg to differ about value of insulating a floor. While quite a bit goes thru the roof, my research has shown that experts generally believe a lot of heat loss (about 10%) goes thru uninsulated floors. http://www.natenergy.org.uk/insulat.htm http://www.shoreinsulation.com/Thermogr ... Family.pdf Google "heat loss crawl space" for more.

John, Every barrel has bad apples. Every message board has idiots. Every association has (*&^%$ (*&^%$#@ (insert your own phrase here). I've just learned to separate the wheat from the chaff, the gold from the soils, and I don't let the above stop me from getting good education and enjoying life. http://www.kreia.org/conferenceinfo.html . Click on the "Conference Agenda" and look to the bottom of the second page for the presenters. You'll be missing some good stuff just because a couple of members conduct themselves badly.

The particular out in the country I was referring to was in Fayette county, down along the river. Are you going to be attending the KREIA Conference in Lexington the first few days of March. http://www.kreia.org

Bain, I've seen something similar to this a couple of times out in the country around here when there is another level above the level the water heater is on. Their logic is that they use the TPR drain pipe,running off to a floor drain or wherever, to drain the supply pipe whenever they need to do so. Open the valve, the water runs out into the TPR drain pipe and off to the discharge, or so their theory goes.

To late tonight to say a lot about it. Call me: 502-570-4054

I don't have any pictures but had something very similar when I lived out in the country southwest of Austin and had a 150 foot well. The submersible well pump, 150' down, sent water into the holding tank turning off and on based on the float switch in the holding tank. Pumped 50 - 100 gallons each time it came on. The holding tank fed water to the 50 gallon pressure tank and house thru a jet pump based on the pressure switch on the jet pump. Jet pump came on every 5 or 10 gallons. Worked well. The theory, as I understood it at the time was to reduce the number of on/off cycles of the well pump, transferring those on/off cycles to the jet pump in the well house. This was supposed to increase the service life of the submersible well pump. Much easier and cheaper to replace a jet pump in the well house than it was to bring out a rig to replace the submersible pump at the bottom of the well .

Ever since a structural engineer came to look at a foundation crack on one of my inspections said "Yep, its a problem. You need to get a foundation contractor in here." and then charged them $300.00, I don't recommend structural engineers anymore. I tell em, "I recommend that you consult a qualified foundation contractor (who utilizes the services of a licensed engineer to design repairs), to determine any needed repairs, design the appropriate repairs, estimate costs and perform all repairs deemed necessary." or some such variation.

Posted: Mar 28, 2004 11:30 AM Post subject: Kentucky Licensing Law Passed -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- The Kentucky Licensing Law, Senate Bill 34, has now passed both houses of the legislature and is awaiting the governor's signature. http://www.lrc.state.ky.us/record/04rs/SB34.htm The version that passed both houses is the one marked HCS/LM about 1/2 way down the page. If you're a Kentucky Inspector and want to stay informed join the mailing list of KREIA - Kentucky Real Estate Inspection Association (www.kreia.org) by sending your Name Company Name Address City,ST, Zip Phone # E-Mail address to KREIA_Webmaster@kreia.org

There was a recent discussion on this at Inspection News that may be helpful. The topic was in Tools & Equipment titled "another digital camera". Should be fairly close to the top of the page of thread titles. I'll try to link it here. another digital camera

I think every home inspector should belong to the state association (if there is one) in their state. If it's not strong, join and help make it stronger. I'm against any state law that requires or even feels the need to mention National Associations. Not that I'm against membership in National Associations. I think that's great and valuable learning tool. Heck, I'm a member of two (well, I was until Branding). Maybe I will be again after it's revealed. Yah just gotta learn to ignore the idiots, help the mediocre, and learn from the good. Point is that membership in those national associations provided me the opportunity to meet and communicate with other HI's around the nation and gain educationally. Kinda like this forum does.

This one helps me when I'm not sure where else to go: http://www.thomasregister.com/ Let's you search by product or service, company name, and/or brand name. Here's a list of manufacturers with National in their name. Not sure which one it would be but would first guess the Natinal Piping Products one. Full list and links available at: http://www.plumbingnet.com/listn.html National Bathing Products 5 Greenwood Ave Romeoville, IL 60446 815-886-5900; fax: 815-886-5936 www.nationalbath.com National Control Systems, Inc. 114479 S. Pine Dr., Ste. 21 Parker, CO 80134 800-998-6493; fax: 303-840-2287 National Draeger, Inc. ... see Draeger Safety, Inc. Nationaline brand Water Heaters see State Industries National Mfg & Supply South 14th Ave Mendota, IL 61342 800-880-0442; 815-539-9786 National Network-Master Distributors 4819 Reading Rd. Dallas, TX 75247-6716 214-951-8677; 800-355-8677; fax: 214-630-1255 National Piping Products, Inc. 5906 Armour Dr. Houston, TX 77020 713-675-8529; 800-648-5721; fax: 713-675-9809 National Test Plugs, Inc. P.O. Box 3050 Palos Verdes, CA 90274 800-333-2212; fax: 310-377-5365