Tom Raymond

That sounds like something an RE would write in the listing.

Had they cleaned it before they removed the scaffold it would have come right off with distilled white vinegar and a stiff bristle brush. Now they'll need to use muriatic acid. A couple of laborers could do it in a day or so.

The fact that most of my livelihood comes from replacing major components-roofing, siding, fenestration- in houses that are less than 20 years old.

I don't see the problem. Houses built after about 1980 generally have a 25 year life expectancy. This one is pretty much on target.

I had a horrible experience with AT&T. I had phones that were completely useless, the maps showed 3G coverage but the phones indicated 'emergency calls only' almost everywhere. After 8 days of arguing with their customer service morons I returned the phones, canceled my contracts, and was promptly sent to a collection agency to recover a full month's service, a prorated month of service, and the early termination fees. That fiasco took months to fix. I have Verizon now and I really can't complain about my service.

Hey, you need a way to the second floor at your place. You should give it a go.

That's a shame. I would have watched it again.

That is a shipping tab used to keep the sash in line and prevent tearing of the fragile weatherstriping. The installation instructions clearly state to remove them. BTW, those are Integrity windows, a company owned by one of the Marvin boys. Susan Marvin runs Papa Marvin's wood window company.

Urea formaldehyde injection foam (think Retro Foam) stays soft, but that looks like a poured wall. No voids for it to escape from.

GAF is decent but, if I had a choice I'd pick Certainteed.

I have some radiant barrier material. I may just have to go and light some up.[:-dev3]

You need to read "About the Author" at the end of the article. It's from a guy hawking E&O insurance, not a realtor. At least it was more interesting than the comments.

Mortar. They are held in place by gravity and mortar, unless your Mike Holmes, in which case you grind out all the mortar and replace it with rubber caulk. You need a mason to slide them out, clean them up, fabricate the flashing that Kurt mentioned, and then set them back in place with new mortar. The most difficult part of the process will be finding one guy capable of that who actually wants to take on such a small project.

I built one that had two wells and still had recovery issues. We ended up with a 600 gallon holding tank and a timer arrangement with a high/low float override.

That's nasty.

So someone zoned it after the fact? And, is that lead sweat into those copper fittings?

Why dink around with the thermostat? I know, standard operating controls, yada yada yada. Hooey! If it's too hot for the stat to call for heat it's working, and if you have to chill the stat it ain't normal operation anyhow. When I have had occasion to jump start one I've done it right at the control board, usually with all the covers off so I can see what's going on.

I don't think the curls are that big of a problem. They'll be knocked off when the rest of the cover is mowed. That cover is whooped.

I'm pretty sure most roofers can't read. If they could, they'd be something other than a roofer.

We have a half dozen LGs at the day job. They're great ladders. My HI ladders are the 300 lb rated Werner version. They're wider, more stable, and lots less expensive.

I found one of these a few months ago. The thread is here https://www.inspectorsjournal.com/forum ... fer,switch I actually prefer this arrangement, every other transfer switch I run across has far too many pigtails jammed into an already overstuffed 100 amp enclosure.

I weighed 205 when I quit smoking 2 years ago and gained 30 pounds. I'm headed ever so slowly in the right direction at 217 this morning, add my shoes, wallet and cell phone and I'm pretty close to the ladder rating. I prefer a greater margin of safety as I still have aches and pains from a hip and back injury from a ladder accident over 20 years ago. Lighter is nice, but safety first. Nolan, the scissor lift was priceless. You'd fit right in with the crew. I'll tell the boss that he should get me a the HD Extend and Climb at 15' or more, and crane for chubby.

I've searched, and there never was any consensus regarding which brand was better. At the day job, the other outside sales guy and I have asking for new ladders for several months and the boss finally bought a pair of 8' XC's. We opened one to play with it and I jammed it the first time I tried to close it. It took several cycles to unstick it, and several more before the locks would fully engage. I am at the weight rating, my coworker is way over it, and the 8' reach is useless, so they are going back. Are these things really useful? What size would you recommend? Which brand is better and why? Or, should we just go and get the Werner M15's that me and the fat guy both asked for months ago?

I'm really glad I don't have to worry about such nonsense. Hell, my doors are unlocked right now. Ah, country living...

You could be on TV with two 60 second spots a day for that kind of scratch. Call your local cable company.