Tom Raymond

I would have no problem putting a ladder on the lower roof to get to the upper. How do you think they sided it? That contemporary design was popularized by the famed B.U. Ttugly around 1960 and it stubbornly persisted well into the 90's.

Ramon, that enclosure is part of the fixture. There are all sorts of aftermarket covers made of everything form paper to plastic to steel, and none of them are easy to install in the real world. The marketing material shows a box or bucket simply set over the fixture, but in reality there are wires, mounting straps, framing and blocking that are always in the way. In the OP the can is right in the middle of the catwalk. If it were mine (and I were inclined to do anything with it) I'd cut a 12" to 14" round hole for the can in a sheet of 2" rigid insulation, then cover that with a piece of plywood or OSB with the whole sandwich the width of the catwalk. That way I wouldn't burn myself on a hot can every time I had to change the filter and my HVAC tech wouldn't kneel on the fixture and push it through the ceiling.

I really like getting props from you Les, but the credit should go to Mike Lamb since it was his comment. I suggested that Dev, (Dex?) report his instructors to his State's licensing body. Our new friend might best be served by distinguishing between the lousy treatment and instruction he received and the crappy curriculum he was so disappointed with. They're separate issues and need to be addressed as such. There should be a fairly straight forward complaint process in place through the State, and I'd be very surprised if there wasn't something similar at ASHI.

If your State requires class room training it will have a minimum standard and most likely will have approved the curriculum. If the instruction really is as lame as you say I'm sure the licensing body would be interested in hearing about it. Unfortunately the course you expected doesn't exist. What you experienced is what we call shake-n-bake. If the program is presented really well you will be prepared to pass your State exam and have a good handle on just how much you still need to learn.

I only describe groups of like items that way, "I opened and closed a representative sample of the interior doors. Most of them operated as expected." This way I can skip all the good ones and focus on the fooked stuff.

Install another storage tank water heater to meet your domestic water needs. I just replaced mine over the weekend for less than $400. Double that if you plan to hire a plumber.

I don't think the roof details are your problem but I'd go ahead and install the closure strips anyway. What do the windows and doors look like? Most of the time I see them caulked to the J channels without any other flashing or pans. If none of the penetrations are detailed correctly at the steel the building will leak like a sieve regardless of the veneer details.

So did jackson remove his own link or are the mods just pruning them now?

If it's a Sunsetter it will have a three function remote (open, close, stop), automatic limits so that the motor stops when it is fully extended/retracted, and the power cord should be arranged so that it has a drip loop at each end and be routed to prevent damage or trip hazards. They're heavy. A 16 footer weighs around 170lbs. Make sure it is anchored to framing and that the fasteners are tight. If it has a wind sensor and you wish to test it: extend the awning, grasp one end of the header rail and pull up and down at least a foot five or six times, repeat if it hasn't retracted (they usually go on the 7th or 8th pull). Make sure the manual crank handle is present. It will be very difficult to close without it in the event of a power outage. Installation and troubleshooting info at http://www.sunsetter.com/support/

It gets way colder here and almost every kitchen sink I see is under a window. The ones that aren't are in an island.

This won't disturb the neighbors; and as an added bonus won't require any "special licenses, permits, or skilled labor". Just like the numb skull that placed the originals.

I read the installation instructions and they're not worth the paper they're printed on. The primary weather seal is caulk, inside and out, and they only need flashing if the local code requires it. Is there really a local code that doesn't? Hooey!

I agree with Kurt, it has to do with your PDF engine. I had a problem delivering reports a few months ago. I had two that took several tries to send. Turns out PDFCreator makes big documents, and my mail server has a 10mb size limit that is actually a whole lot closer to 9mb. Changing only my PDF converter I halved the document size, improved the appearance, and fixed the glitches. So far the embedded PDF engine in Word 2010, Windows 7 is working flawlessly. (Do we have a fingers crossed smiley?)

He looks just like you... except for the hat.

...you guessed it, laceration hazards. They were sold individually or as part of an Apocalypse Survival Kit. Be sure to get your free replacement before the zombies arrive. more info...

The amperage is determined the same way regardless of how many phases there are. You didn't measure the voltage? Tsk, tsk. Call the Utility.

I may have to change my quote.

At least that church still has some copper on it, there's another not far from you that went with faux copper painted corrugated steel. It's lovely. The best kept church here still has it's slates, the rest have gone asphalt.

My house had gas in every room for space heaters and lighting. Every inch of it was installed after the house was finished. Floor boards were removed and the tops of joists notched for the plumbing. When it was first electrified the sparky followed the same path. There were no gas fixtures left when I got there, but I do still have a couple of the original luminares from the 30's (the house had indoor plumbing in the 1890's but wasn't electrified until after K&T fell out of fashion). The ceiling fixture from the front porch now illuminates the basement stairs, and parts of the original pendant from the upper stair were used to make task lighting over the kitchen sink.

Mr. O is on to something. Did these places have hardwood floors or blown in insulation? I have seen several floor sanders and a couple of blower rigs that were set up to clamp on rather than plug in. Contractors are a special breed.

The back up idea occurred to me, but that valve placement would be less than convenient in the middle of a shit storm.

Is the vertical pipe just behind the trap connected? This is a WAG but some people are under the mistaken impression that grey water, especially the food waste from a kitchen, is bad for septic systems. Could it be a diverter between a septic system and a grey water drain?

Rob, it looks like yours came from India. Scroll to the bottom: http://www.bing.com/images/search?q=hea ... 77&first=1

I'll second the meter connections, especially if the new service install didn't include replacing the meter enclosure. My brother had a similar issue with flickering lights that worsened to include intermittent brown outs on some circuits and eventually lost power to half the house. The back of the enclosure was rusted through and one of the plastic meter lugs was broken. He's very fortunate the arcing didn't burn the place down.

As far as I know, one has to purchase the Standard from the ASTM website.