Tom Raymond

I always prefer to see a manufactured window product over a site built unit. If you insist on building your own direct sets fab the frame out of cellular vinyl. It will withstand any incidental moisture that accumulates behind the stops. Unless you are using high performance glass with a high performance spacer there is as much condensation as there is seepage through the glazing media. Weep holes not only protect the frame assembly, they prevent seal failures. Glazing seals last longer when they are dry. In cold climates surprisingly small quantities of water can leverage seals apart when it expands as it freezes. The glass pack should also be on setting blocks at the quarter points to provide an air gap so the spacer can dry and the weeps can drain. A skilled glazier can set a glass pack in a single instance with wet or tape media. If there is excessive squeeze out that needs to be cleaned off the glass then it is likely it was set by the same unskilled laborer that smeared the construction adhesive on the floor joists when they framed the place. It doesn't matter what side it's glazed from, when it is time for replacement someone will have to work on both sides of the unit.

It might be worth the trip, just on the off chance that you could be present when Nick pisses off his neighbors.

Here's mine. I may use a more imperative tone if there are small children or if my client is expecting, but only if the place is a real POS.

I'd advise my client to get a matching one for the hot side.

Why don't they just paint them? It keeps Walmart dry and that's the same butt ugly block.

That crumbly stuff is a desiccant not a gasket, if it's gotten wet enough to fall apart it most definitely is a seal failure. If it is falling off because it's desiccated it is a faulty material. Both are manufacturing defects. I put windows and doors in the interiors section, everything else inside is cosmetic. I don't describe cosmetic stuff- that's the RE's job.

I don't see any advantage to minis either. We explored this with the 900 SF condo on 2 floors and the monkey that pulled out the trunks and returns for the upper floor. The cheapest 3 zone mini I could find then was $3000 wholesale for parts. A single head installed for $3000 isn't going to be effective, let alone efficient. We did a single head this past summer (AC only) with a roof mounted coil for a 1000 SF office and it cost over $4K. The technology is cool, but it ain't cheap.

If it were a closet it would have a finished interior. Is Jeff going to make sure the ceiling between those two walls is covered? If the plumbing and electrical penetrations are required to be sealed it seems silly to ignore the gap in the wet wall.

The sanitary tee is wrong, the wye should have been a double. Why is the manifold opposite the lavatories? How are they going to fire stop that enormous cavity and does anybody really need that much soundproofing around the john?

I got an invite to the InterNACHI Inspector Marketing World Tour in the mail yesterday, has anybody been to one of these? The price is right, but I have concerns that the 4 hour program isn't going to be worth the 4 hour round trip. The program brochure is lacking important information (like a location) and much of the recruiting piece smells of BS.

Go to spraypolyurethane.org. It's the SPF Industry Association.

Just about every 3 tab made in the last 15 years does that, it's how they keep them under $100 a square.

It was quite beautiful. I hope your client has the means to undo some of the injustices. If it were in that condition it my area it would be on the verge of becoming a triple.

Is that J channel around the quoins?

That definitely looks like a couple of poor quality fittings. The street ell is a mess.

Thanks Bill. I found the food service listing but missed the other.

Except for right at the manifolds the tubing was very loosely supported at 8-10 foot intervals. The well pump developed 30 PSI before the softener, but opening the taps at the kitchen and bath sinks and the tub dropped the manifold pressure to below 10 PSI. The pressure was better with the softener bypassed, but the flow was still anemic. Even at those low pressures I would expect the tubing to flop around as the taps were opened, especially with >60% pressure fluctuations.

Today's house had some really fun plumbing. 800SF ranch built over a crawl in 1950. At some point the copper distribution pipes froze in the crawl and some nincumpoop replumbed the place with food grade 1/4" braided PVC. The manifold: Click to Enlarge 26.76 KB The tubing: Click to Enlarge 14.47 KB The support scheme: Click to Enlarge 30.76 KB The flow was as crappy as you can imagine, and fortunately the water softener was sufficiently plugged to keep the pressure low enough to prevent any audible movement in the tubing. This can't possibly be an approved distribution material, any help with a code cite would be apreciated. The DWV, no vents at all, was just as much fun. The tub trap included PVC drain connectors, 2 ferncos, an ABS trap with Schedule 40 PVC arms, PB tubing, and galvanized nipples stubbed out of the cast iron main.

'OK, let me have it!!!' is part of the title of this thread. I think Roy expected a pounding. It takes big brass ones to put up a report for review. Thanks Roy, and everyone else who's volunteered, it helps all of us.

Are you saying that any entry door is going to leak, regardless of flashing details? The air and water leakage standard is 1" per hour rain and 25 MPH wind for 20 minutes. Exceed any one of those and water will be driven over the threshold riser, under the sweep, or through the junctions in the various weatherstripping. So, given the right conditions every door leaks.

Modern entry doors are designed to withstand rain at a rate of one inch per hour with a 25 mile per hour wind load in 20 minute cycles. The door would have leaked regardless of the flashing details durring Isaac, we exceeded those rates here.

What happened when you pushed the buttons? Did you pull the switches? The screws are missing.

Kibble is a machine. Scroll down to pages 23/24. Honeywell Unique Valve

That radiator is still gravity fed.

That's about the image size of my Bcam. It isn't great but it works. The Bcam has auto focus, stay away from fixed focus cameras. The B40 was the base camera in 2008 and cost around $6k.