Bill Kibbel

When I lived in southern VA, I heard a bluegrass (instrumental) version of the song.

It's probably the very old traditional folk song by that name, probably from the early to mid 19th century. I'm sure it's been performed by many bands since. I wouldn't know how to find the particular band or rendition she remembers though.

I'm pretty sure there's no requirement for an operable transom. Are you saying the door went all the way to the ceiling or there was a space above the door without a transom?

From what I can see in the photos, it looks like sheet metal that transitions to what is likely Transite (cement-asbestos). Common for in-slab ducts for that era. https://inspectorsjournal.com/forum/top ... C_ID=15495

Me too. When my wife starts to smell smoke in the laundry room, she buys a new dryer.

No spaces in the file name.

Oh yes they are. From the "News from ASHI" September 01, 2013: "Over 33,000 Prospects for General Home (Home Inspector) Do prospective clients find you online right when they need you? HomeAdvisor is the nation's leading property improvement website connecting nearly six million unique visitors each month with prescreened, customer-rated service professionals (and it's an ASHI-endorsed program). Help HomeAdvisor Customers Find You Now! ASHI members to receive this deal: 50% Off New Enrollment 6% Quarterly Rebate 50% Off ProLeads for the First 30 Days after New Enrollment Call: 913.529.2682 Email: ASHI@HOMEADVISOR.COM" I'm pretty sure they bought our contact info from ASHI.

The Velux skylight is usually not what's leaking. I find that leaks that occur only during really heavy rains, or melting snow, are quite often from the shingle termination at the saddle/head flashing. I frequently find that the shingles aren't properly terminated well above the vertical part of the saddle/head flashing. Velux requires 2-3/8" minimum. If the slope of the roof is over 12:12 there's supposed to be diverter on the roof above the head of the skylight as well.

It's rebranded Service Magic. New name - same unqualified leads.

Radon levels will have highs and lows during each diurnal cycle. How do the buyers and sellers know at which point of the cycle his little sniff was done? The plug-in "monitoring" device info that was linked earlier says it provides a 7-day average. I don't think it would be useful for an instant sniff and probably not valid for a real estate screening. The whole radon testing thing is pretty gray science when you look deeply into it. It looks even worse when there are clowns like this running scams.

My Grandma, or my Mom, would have had it looking showroom new in the amount of time it took to write the post. Back-in-the-day most folks just did what they saw had to be done, whether it was supposed to be their job or not. It makes me think - I should just do what I need to do and not bitch about what others aren't doing.

Even if I agreed with that statement, it wouldn't be a factor. I'm concerned with functionality, not snob appeal.It's about stepping up a notch from gutter cleaners and presenting an appearance of a professional consultant. Factory rails aren't necessary. Both make a wide assortment of mounting systems for their racks that attach to naked roofs of many makes and models of vehicles.

Those will look like your a painting contractor or you work for the cable company. If your van has a gutter, the Tracrac TracVan is absolutely the best rack I've ever had. http://www.tracrac.com/vans/double-vanrac I no longer drive vans so I now have Yakima on my Explorer and Thule on my Outlander. They have accessories to attach to any vehicle. Both brands' racks can handle anything but I really like the selection of accessories for the Thule.id="left">

When they went with the copper-nickel allow, they were labeled "copper-nickel" then later "Monel", the trademark for the alloy. The one pictured has a copper tank.

In classical architecture, that would be a taenia. For that building, I would just call it a moulding. The profile is cyma-recta with dentils.

There's nothing wrong with venting your gas-fired water heater into a masonry chimney - as long as it has a properly installed and correctly sized terra cotta liner and it is shared with a gas-fired heating system. There's nothing wrong with single-walled vent connectors used in a conditioned space (I'm guessing this is in a basement - maybe finished) between natural draft, gas-fired equipment and the chimney. Single walled vent connectors from natural draft, gas-fired equipment do not need 10" of clearance to combustibles. Only 6", unless the appliance is one that has a gas conversion burner. There are "wall thimbles" that can be used to pass single-walled vent connectors through a combustible wall assembly.

Vapor/vacuum steam heating systems operate well below atmospheric pressure, are more fuel efficient and are known to provide better comfort.

Pressures are much, much lower with steam than h/w. Piping has to be correct, not more "robust". http://www.oldhouseweb.com/how-to-advic ... 1678.shtml Steam was king when coal was the primary fuel. I'm pretty sure your area is one of many that weren't profitable for the anthracite coal barons to ship their product to.

He paid them off - just what they wanted. That's the precedent the patent trolls needed to continue their extortion.

Jim, we've got another one. I just posted this yesterday in another thread: "Some folks seeking "advice" already have their minds made up. They just want others to reinforce their decision. Some other folks don't listen to anything except what they want to hear."

What did your inspector tell you?

Scott, I don't think I've seen a pressure reducing valve that doesn't have an expansion bypass for at least 15 years - and very few before then. Makes expansion tank installations a completely unnecessary expense, unless there's actually a check valve installed too.

There's a few methods of attaching the thatch but yes, the ends of the reeds curl up. The butts of each bundle of thatch is dressed with a leggett paddle. Click to Enlarge 31.23 KB

Despite his surname, he's from Northern England. About 15 years ago he did a roof just a couple miles away from me. It took 5 months.

I had an opportunity to learn a whole lot more about thatched roofs today, from a traditional Irish thatcher. Remembering Mike's question here, I specifically asked about the sod layer under the straw thatch. Click to Enlarge 63.1 KB It's a technique that was used in Northern Ireland since the 17th century. The sod layer, called "scraws" is taken from the top of peat soil. This turf is laid on wattles secured to purlins. Bundles of straw thatch are secured to the turf with hazel rods, bent into a U shape, like a staple. These are called scollops. Some folks believe this method originated from applying thatch to older buildings that originally had sod roofs.