Bill Kibbel

I enjoy learning about old building materials and methods. When I see something different, more than a few times, I just get curious. I'm fortunate to have resources to find out stuff. I once saw specs (I think it was for a building in the early 30s) that specified Ruberoid for a crawlspace. Click to Enlarge 76.08 KB

Transite can contain up to 25% chrysotile fibers, however, I don't recommend replacement/abatement of transite gas vents or plumbing vents unless there is damage or deterioration. It's not because they are mostly concealed, but rather because there is very little risk of asbestos fiber release. Oval huh, I've never seen it in any shape other than round.

I see it occasionally. It's usually thicker than 30# Felt. It's probably Ruberoid roll-roofing, manufactured by Standard Paint Co. from 1886-1965 (the Ruberoid name was purchased by GAF in the late 60s). Ruberoid had a plant in Chicago.

Could you please reply with the specific sections numbers of NEC and IRC? I have both and would be happy to review to learn more about the error of my ways. I agree what I posted is the min. working space, which is revalent to the picture in the original post. I have the 2006 IRC here on my PC. The NEC is on my laptop in the car. IRC E3605.7 Location of overcurrent devices in or on premises. Overcurrent devices shall: 5. Be installed so that the center of the grip of the operating handle of the switch or circuit breaker, when in its highest position, is not more than 6 feet 7 inches (2.0 m) above the floor or working platform.

Bruce, you're quoting minimum height of "working space". It doesn't back up your claim for the maximum height of panelboards. Jim P is correct, as per what's in the NEC and IRC.

What's that from? You sure the maximum height doesn't refer to the highest device handle in a panelboard?

I'll bet it was an attempt at a repair and was not done when constructed. Any sign of the walls leaning out? Any gaps where rafters meet the ridge? Here's another bailing wire repair: Click to Enlarge 49.91 KB

The headers "bond" the wythes together. In a 2-wythe wall (the wall is 2 bricks thick) The inside surface bricks are bonded to the outside surface bricks.Click to Enlarge 2.75 KB A majority of the brick & stone buildings that I inspect (17th, 18th & early 19th century) don't have lintels or even headers as we think of them today. The joined mortise & tenon window and door frames are the only structural support for the masonry walls above. You don't want to be yankin'-em out to install vinyl-framed windows!Click to Enlarge 54.72 KB Thick stone walls will have some timber headers above the openings behind the joined frames too. Click to Enlarge 15.94 KB

I don't think there would be anything at all in the code or NFPA 211 about the construction of ash pits - just stuff about the door. If this water heater B-vent was the "vent connector" from the water heater to a vertical flue, vent or chimney, I think it has to be completely accessible for inspection, cleaning and replacement.

The sarcasm smiley didn't show up in my post.

I'm rather shocked to find inspectors in Illinois choose to not include such critically important details about a home. "At the master bathroom sink, there is a 12" widespread faucet assembly, with a swing gooseneck spout, lever handles and a pop-up drain. It is constructed of solid brass with a lacquered antique finish. It includes a quick connect hose assembly and a ceramic disk valve".

That's the same statement on literature from companies that sell all the crap to treat roofs that have black streaks. It also now appears on thousands of websites of roofing contractors, cleaning services and hundreds of home inspectors. Even homeowner associations are distributing this nonsense in bulletins. Moss and lichens can damage a roof. What's causing the black streaks does not. What's causing the dark stains is gloeocapsa magma. Everyone calls it algea, but it's really a species of cyanobacteria. It's a strain of photosynthesizing bacteria and it's "food" is water and the nutrients in rainwater, primarily nitrogen. It's ugly, but it's NOT EATING THE SHINGLES!

I can't help but think they were installed after construction by the unit owner (no mustard paint on the metal for one). I then can't help but wonder why the occupant needed it.

The tubes that I've seen with that "rating" are thermoplastic polypropylene.

Keep learning and adding fuel to an appreciation of historic buildings and we'll see your name here soon: http://inspecthistoric.org/

Find and ask Doug Reed of Preservation Assoc. Inc. He's somewhere in northern MD, but knows everyone involved with historic buildings. Another resource would be the field office of Preservation Maryland.

PPB damage to hewn timbers is typically limited to the sapwood (outer rings of the log). If the top and bottom of the timber is hewn down to the heartwood, there usually isn't any repairs needed. Termite damage is a different story. I hope you could access and probe all of the sill timbers. They're almost always heavily damaged and rotating outwards. It lost its chimneys and some windows too.

If any home or building is over 80 years, I won't start later than noon. Over 150 years and I won't start later than 10:00 AM. Occasionally, I get home home by dinner. [] Keep in mind, most homes I'm in have at least 5 additions to the original house. I could do it, but adding the travel expense to my typical inspection fee would cost 'em more than a half a years mortgage payments. I don't see anything in the pics of the basement foundation that would have me telling the buyers to run away screaming. What you found is described here: http://historicbldgs.com/stonefoundations.htm The foundation in that crawlspace however, wasn't laid by the mason that built the foundation for the basement. It was likely the farmer and his neighbors that built an addition. There probably never was a coating to maintain and no one has been in there to do anything since it was built. Someone has to get in there now and fix it.

How can you possibly do even a crappy inspection when starting it in the evening? Are you going back the next day to complete it? Umm, some training and experience with historic buildings. Before I inspected my first old building I had extensive hands-on experience and had studied hundreds of historic buildings in my area. For that building, you need to know everything about stone foundations, local mortar formulas, English timber framing techniques and the possible failures that can occur with each. You need to know what all the bad things are that happen over 200 years with fire, water, insects and contractors retrofitting new systems into a building that wasn't intended to have them. The fact that it is listed as "renovated" could be worse damage than any caused by nature. You also need to know how to educate the buyers on how to reclaim, restore and maintain the original historic character of the home. Sorry to be harsh, but I regularly follow HIs (even with many years of experience) that shouldn't be accepting money for inspecting buildings that they don't understand. They usually miss issues that will cost tens of thousands, even though the reports are full of "further evaluation" ('cuz they don't know how to interpret old building techniques and hand-made building materials). They also often call for repairs that aren't necessary or are inappropriate for an historic building. I get calls at least twice a month that begin: "Hi Bill, my attorney suggested we contact you. We bought an historic home last year and the home inspector..." Maybe I'm wrong, John. Maybe you're the best guy in the area for the job. I know you're fairly new, but have worked very hard to learn all that you can. If someone moving to your area asked, I wouldn't hesitate to give them your name, if the house was built within the past 60 years. In the mid-Atlantic area you won't find anything but "powder" behind the pointing mortar in a stone foundation. http://www.oldhouseweb.com/how-to-advic ... rtar.shtml

I'll bet anything that the main breakers were in a box at the meter.

Please check out my latest "old house" post. The more people that see it, the happier it makes my bosses at oldhouseweb.com. Gas Lighting - Beyond the City

What week is 00?

In my notes, I have Hoyt out-o-bidness by the early to mid '90s. Their serial numbers started with a letter, followed by a 2-digit date. Ex: H87075483 would be 1987. I think American eventually bought their factory. What date was stamped on the relief valve tag?

The stuff from the Coop Extension is only voluntary guidelines for homeowners. It is not a list of requirements. In fact, it conflicts with some local PA municipal ordinances. You need to get the actual local requirements for the areas that you are inspecting, like I do.

PA does not regulate private well installations, despite many (failed) legislative attempts. Neither the PADEP nor the USEPA have the authority to regulate private wells, so there is no document listing requirements. In PA, some counties and municipalities have ordinances restricting well locations. Check with the county's health department first. Here's the regulations for my county: http://www.buckscounty.org/government/d ... ndRegs.pdf