Bill Kibbel

I'm pretty sure it (was) a pressure-only relief valve - like the type used in fairly high-pressure water systems that use positive displacement pumps. They're installed on the pressure side of pumps to help prevent damage to a pump if there is blockage in the system. It is not manufactured for boilers or water heaters. Where the brass nut is attached to the bronze body, there should be a T-handle valve for adjusting the pressure.

No. It's been severely hacked* and in your climate, a heat pump needs to have reliable supplemental heat. I'd be advising the client to have a damn good (real) heat pump installed. *Hack, hacked, hack·ing: to damage, injure, deform or alter by crude, harsh, or insensitive treatment; mutilate; mangle

I'm told that after a potential client fills out a form, it's reviewed and sent to several home inspector "clients" of Servicemagic. Folks that I know who tried it, said the leads take too long to be processed and arrive too late. That was quite a few years ago and I guess it's possible that it could have changed.

In Kentucky, I'm sure they know better than to allow whiskey to touch galvanized steel. I've seen many "bomb shelters" and storm cellars with similar vents.

It's not my pic. It was sent to me by a reader and I thought folks here would enjoy it. Cats are always hiding when I'm inspecting their homes. I smells 'em but rarely sees 'em.

Click to Enlarge 29.56 KB Yup. It be workin'.

The furnace pictured is more likely from the early to mid '60s. The external "box" is no different than draft hoods installed inside the furnace cabinet. It's not a flue connector passing through the return compartment. It's a heavy gauge, welded-seam steel tube. I've never found one leaking byproducts of combustion or found anything but minor surface rust from humidifiers. That's a very common style of furnace here. They're still manufactured in that style for oil-fired systems.

H20 is a byproduct of combustion. You ever notice water dripping out of vehicle exhaust pipes? You probably don't see it there as often as with gas because oil burners operate at a lower combustion efficiency. I see it quite often as I inspect a lot of buildings that have been converted to oil heat when the chimney was designed and sized for coal. Coal heat kept chimneys warmer and didn't have rapid on/off cycles. With oil, these chimney flues are now at a lower temp., resulting in significant (and very acidic) condensation. Was the flue oversized? unlined? Chimney on the exterior of the building?

From what I read on another recent thread, it seems some inspectors don't concern themselves with noticing lack of shut-offs for any hose bib. Some just rely on CYA boiler-plate. Richard be lookin' out for his clients and dun' need no CYA.

As long as I can remember we've given a discount to military, law enforcement and fire/rescue personnel. As far as offering services for free, I'd rather donate my time to folks that are in situations where they can't purchase any type of roof over their heads. Consider offering your experience and skills to repair or maintain a shelter for battered women and abused children or a shelter for homeless families. These places are often falling apart due to recent State budget axes. There's also severely injured vets returning and need major accessibility alterations to their homes. Consider going to your chapter leaders and members for monetary donations for needed projects too.

Is there a GFCI protected 120V outlet at 10-20' from the tub?

Sorry for the delay. Yesterday, I knocked over a large glass of Hayden's and found that my CPU doesn't appreciate good bourbon. I had to replace some parts today. I was given a product testing report when I was doing some litigation support for a civil suit. I don't know if it's ever been published or made available to the public, so I'm not going to post it (that, and it's about 18 pages of paper, not an electronic file). Here's the bits that I found interesting. Most professionals, involved with manufacturing safety, health and air quality believe that manufacturing products containing asbestos was banned in the '70s. The truth is, US regulations still allow products to contain asbestos well above known safe levels. The USEPA and OSHA still allow a certain level of asbestos in construction materials, drinking water and even airborne fibers in the workplace. The study, completed in 2007, subjected over 250 different products to an asbestos screening. 18 were found to contain asbestos at one lab. 8 of these were confirmed by additional testing at another lab. 5 were confirmed by a third lab. (the other 13 were not yet tested by a third lab as of the date of the report). The first of the five products was a toy "kit" for children. It contained different color powders, one of which (white) contained asbestos. The next is a very common window glazing compound, produced in the US by a well known manufacturer. Third was a drywall joint compound (spackling paste) produced in the US by the same manufacturer as above. Fourth was a contractor grade duct tape, made by a huge manufacturer, known for making many types of tape. The fifth was one of two types of "roof patch", fiber-reinforced roofing cement from a manufacturer of caulks, sealants and coatings for the DIYers. One of their roof patch products states, in very fine print "asbestos free product". The other, with an identical label (instead of "asbestos free", the label is identical with only very fine print in the data sheet stating "Chrysotile Mineral" as an ingredient) , was found to contain 15% asbestos. The report concludes by stating this is only phase 1 and the next phase is likely going to be a major shocker, including cosmetics and over 1000 medical products.

The website in the link was put together by a personal injury law firm. It has nothing to do with actual facts. There are many that have claimed that some drywall contains asbestos. I always ask them to show me actual independent lab results and no one has been able to produce any. There was (and occasionally, still is) asbestos in drywall joint compound. The reports of drywall workers contracting mesothelioma was about drywall finishers, not rock hangers. If anyones interested, I have a report of a study done in 2007 that shows which commonly available products still contain asbestos.

When I'm asked to contribute to the specs for repointing historically significant buildings, I offer a couple items that I've learned to be important. Repointing is only necessary for areas that have eroded back more than 3/8". For joint prep. - remove only to a depth of approximately 2-1/2 times the joint width. There will be NO grinders used, unless absolutely necessary for removing previous inappropriate repairs. Don't use Type N, O or any other letter type of mortar. It's builders grade, which usually means that it has hydrated lime with a low calcium content and the lime has been absorbing moisture in unconditioned storage for at least several months. It's best if the original mortar is analyzed to determine the original source of calcium oxide, the proportions of lime to sand, the size and color of the aggregate and what additives, like local clay, may be present. Then, get the needed ingredients from deGruchy's Lime Works, US Heritage, or Virginia Lime Works. It's not good enough for the repointing to last my lifetime. It needs to perform as well as, and have at least the same longevity as, the original mortar.

More than a couple decades ago, I was asked to build a small reproduction timber-frame structure at an historic site. The challenge was the $0.00 budget, but we were able to gather enough salvaged materials. For the roof, I installed salvaged, hand-dressed cedar shingles documented to have been on another building for almost 40 years. I had an apprentice trim only about 1" of soft wood from each butt. Not a single one was cupped or curled. Those shingles have now been in service for about 60 years. The wood for the shingles was obviously good quality. Today's #1 Blue Label won't make it to half that life. It was installed on spaced battens with proper spacing, headlap and sidelap. The shingles still swelled when whet, but dried quickly and evenly, which is the biggest factor in the extended life.

PTFE thread seal tape (Teflon is a trademark of Dupont) that's color coded yellow indicates that it is high density as compared to the standard white. It's UL listed and AGA aproved for natural gas and LPG. I don't think it has anything to do with "small pieces... shredded during assembly". I think it's manufactured and tested to be more resistant to chemicals associated with fuel gas, hydrocarbons and solvents.

I see no need for a rating system for individual posts. One with any common sense can quickly begin to identify which participants' posts are worth reading. They're usually from the folks that fill out their profile, use their real name and regularly post facts that can be substantiated. The rest are usually an annoyance at first, then soon get ignored, get bored and get gone.

Hi Les, I see just about 35% of the bank barns here that have earthen ramps created for upper level access. There's plenty of sloping hills on farms here. The "downhill" side always faces south, with only one odd exception. Occasionally there's a ramp and a "bridge". Here the upper level, center bay floors were used for threshing. The bays flanking the fleshing bays were "hay mows" That were filled to the rafters in the fall. The cantilevered forebay was used for grain storage. There's usually a drop chute, from the roof rafters all the way down to the lower level, for supplying the stalls with bedding and feed for the livestock. Mongo, There were many homes in colonial PA built into hillsides, like my first house, circa 1690. They're simply referred to as "bank houses".

A bank barn is either built into a hillside or a ramp is created to easily enter the upper level with wagon loads. The upper level is hay and grain storage and the lower level is for livestock. I've inspected over 4500 barns and maybe about 15% weren't bank barns. Click to Enlarge 64.22 KB Click to Enlarge 72.86 KB

ASME, but it's not enforced for boilers that operate under 15psi and in buildings with less than 4 dwelling units. Some boiler manufacturers' instructions (including some circulating hot water boilers) require the "spindle" of the relief valve to be vertical. Manufacturers' installation instructions for SOME relief valves.

I've inspected quite a few poultry barns that had blacktop over wood floors. None were on an upper level though.

It's Hardie's "zone" system. The new product for freezing climates (zones 1 through 5) has a beveled drip edge. The green tint is probably their new "engineered surface" for better water resistance.

I always considered Brian to be a pretty decent chap, but he doesn't come around no more. Oh, you mean HVAC equipment? According to some of the better techs that have been around this stuff for decades, Goodman used to be at the bottom. More recent stuff has been getting much better reviews from the field.

A frost-free will have the valve stem "in-line" with the pipe. Not all that appear to be "in-line" are frost free though. HBs that the valve stem is perpendicular or offset are not frost-free.

If it's not a "frost-free" bib, I think we should be looking to be sure there's an accessible shut-off. I'm not sayin' I never missed one (never heard about any though), but it's something that could cause significant damage if it's not brought to the clients attention.