Jim Katen

I'm not sure why it's funny (if you've actually read this thread). Why don't you just tell us?

We have tons of outdoor panels here in Oregon where there's plenty of high humidity for about half the year. But the only time I see corrosion like this is if the house is near the coast or if there's some kind of contaminant in the air.

Every pre-1978 dryer receptacle in my area is wired with a 40-amp breaker, #8 cable, and a 50-amp range receptacle. (Except for those where they used larger aluminum wire.) All I can figure is that pre-1978 dryers called for 40 amp breakers. It's standard practice to use a 50-amp receptacle with a 40-amp breaker. As a home inspector, when I run across these (at least a few times a week), I recommend swapping out the 40-amp breaker for a 30-amp breaker to comply with the requirements of 21st century dryers, and to swap out the 50-amp receptacle for a 30-amp receptacle, to match the breaker. (I don't generally recommend upgrading to 4 wires unless it looks like it would be really easy to do so.)

It should be easy enough to tell whether or not the sink still leaks. If it doesn't and if the drywall below it *looks* fine and smells fine, then don't worry about it. Stop harassing the poor little Curvularias. Without moisture they won't continue to grow and their spores will eventually dissipate.

Hi JJY, Believe it or not, there are no acceptable or unacceptable levels of any kind of mold in a house. Interpretation of these kinds of measurements is all based on myth, hearsay, & fantasy. Unless you're actually experiencing a problem, testing air for mold spores is a pointless waste of time & money. The only ones who benefit from it are the inspector and the mold lab. Within the profession, this is pretty much well known and people like you are seen as patsies. Do you see mold? Do you smell mold? If the answer to these questions is yes, figure out what caused the mold, eliminate the cause, and clean up the mold. (Mold is *always* a symptom of a water problem.) Then have a coke & a smile, and go on with your life. If the answer to these questions is no, then forget all about the imaginary mold, have a coke & a smile, and go on with your life.

OK, Aaron. Here's the ladder for you:

I finally got around to looking, and it has no brand or manufacturer name on it. No country of origin. No model number. Just "Electronic Digital Caliper" and "Carbon Fiber Composite Digital Caliper." I got it from Amazon several years ago just so that I could use it in live electrical panels. I think it cost $8. Interestingly, it's in perfect agreement with my expensive metal Starett calipers - and it's easier to read. Of course, there's some flex in the carbon fiber, so you have to be very gentle when taking readings, but otherwise it's been a great tool.

Challenge accepted in 36 words: Serious concerns include non-viable floor framing, major heating and air conditioning problems, too many roof layers, no crawlspace access, and inadequate attic access. I can't perform a diligent review without access to these critical areas. Lesson learned: Prepositions can be a huge waste of words.

So what's an overloaded roof cover?

My reaction: It's a little too much for a single sentence. I don't know what you mean by "roof overloads." Attic portions? The last phrase doesn't quite ring true because there's probably "some kind of" inspector or contractor who could perform a diligent review. I'd write: Items of serious concern include a non-viable flooring system, major problems with the heating and air conditioning system, extreme failures of about half the roof, no access to the crawlspace, and inadequate access to the attic. I can't perform a diligent review of this property without having access to these critical areas.

2x12 joists on 16" centers spanning 16' should not be cracking unless you've got elephants dancing on them. The dragging door is not important here. What makes you think that the joists are cracking? Do you have pictures? Do you know what checking is? My gut tells me that you're trying to fix a problem that doesn't exist. If you drive the nails in at an angle, it will not draw the joists together, but hold them apart. You'd need to clamp them together first, then drive the nails at an angle. Alternatively, google "palm nailer."

Slamina, Here's the problem that everyone else won't tell you: When people read a post like this, they think that you're a crazy person and they tend to dismiss you. I'll bet a dollar that's why you're not getting any traction with the landlord. Bottom line, Erby's response was right on the money. If this place is killing you, why are you still there? There have to be other options in your area. A rational person doesn't just sit there and suffer through this stuff, waiting for help from a landlord.

Good observation, but you can't go by the rule markings in this view. The front section of the digital display has some thickness, so with the camera slightly to the right, there's some parallax error. I zeroed out the digital reading before measuring it. It should be pretty darn accurate. If I were to move the camera to the left, it would show .65 on the rule as well. Actually, here's a previous attempt at a photo where the lighting was messed up. The camera is even further to the right and the parallax is slightly greater.

Is there a provision for make-up air or is the fan just churning?

Perhaps it's just an Oregon thing, but timers or humidistats have been required on bathroom exhaust fans for a least two code cycles.

For large openings. For small openings, stainless steel wool works great. The mice will not chew on it because it makes their fillings hurt.

From another Eaton panel (the example in Electrical Inspection of Existing Dwellings is also an Eaton panel) earlier this week. This hole, at .65" is slightly larger than 5/8". My guess is that a mouse would have to be pretty darn motivated to get through this hole.

Looks like some kind of airborne contaminant. I see this kind of early stage corrosion from pool chlorine.

It looks like one of those really hard mushroom thingies that you just about need a table saw to cut through. I assume you told them to pull all that crap out of there.

It could be a condensation problem or it could be related to the hundreds of gallons of water that are directed right onto that poor ridge vent during heavy rains. Install a freakin' gutter! There is no downside to this and it will help you to isolate the problem. Running the ceiling fan all the time will just hide the symptom.

While there probably is a standard for enclosures, and it probably does include restrictions on the placement and sizing of these openings, I don't know what those would be. The 9/16" noted in the book is just an example of a largish opening that doesn't need to be covered. The general rule is that knockouts always need to be covered - either by having clamps or bushings and wiring run through them, or by having knockout covers installed. Holes that the manufacturer made to accommodate mounting hardware do not need to be covered, even though they can get to be quite large. That said, in my reports, I don't recommend covering mounting holes unless I think that a mouse can get through or, more to the point, if I see evidence that mice have gotten through.

You don't have gutters in Texas?

Unless the slit, is not legit And was commit, ed by a twit Who used a bit, to bore the slit As an aftermarkit, retrofit. - Jim-Manuel Miranda

Unless I figure a mouse can fit though, I don't mention it.