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Ineedabreaker


Chad Fabry
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Anyone have a two pole 30 amp FPE stab lok? "E style"

My kid bought a house with an FPE panel and the 20 amp breaker that's been running the 28 amp dryer for about 30 years finally melted down.

I really don't want to swap his panel in the dead of winter.

Just weld a jumper bar across the bus. It'd be about as safe as the original.

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Give me a call Chad.

It's a 30A E style, definitely manufactured during the period when the UL listings were obtained by fraudulent means. It has a couple cracks in the plastic, and the prongs are bent and loose, but I'm sure it will carry current long enough to at least fry some clothes. I suppose this is designed to straddle the "E" stabs from two separate bus sockets. Maybe that's how part of the plastic was broken off this thing.

I was hoping to crack this one open for further analysis, but I'm sure I can find others.

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Douglas Hansen

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I was hoping to crack this one open for further analysis, but I'm sure I can find others.

I'll give you call Douglas, thanks.

In the spring I'll send you 20 or so to crack open.

I have a pristine 200 amp Bulldog Pushmatic I can't wait to install but I have to replace the SE cable first. And maybe drive a ground rod or two.

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Wonder if Chad's boiler is still in one piece and working.

Works awesome. I took off the Rube Goldeberg combustion air controls that I designed with servos, on-off-on aquastats, thermistor motor controls and replaced it all with a cool, simple pill type linear thermostat that lifts a cone out of the intake hole as the temp drops to allow more combustion air.

I'll post a pic.

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Wonder if Chad's boiler is still in one piece and working.

Works awesome. I took off the Rube Goldeberg combustion air controls that I designed with servos, on-off-on aquastats, thermistor motor controls and replaced it all with a cool, simple pill type linear thermostat that lifts a cone out of the intake hole as the temp drops to allow more combustion air.

I'll post a pic.

Wow,

This guy is intimidatingly scary smart. [:-tophat]

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Samson 5D air controller

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The chain from the cone goes to a lever on the controller. As the water temp drops, the cone is lifted allowing more combustion air. As the water reaches the temp setting, the cone is lowered.

It's super simple but it's saving about 20% on wood as compared to the forced air inferno then smoldering choked fire that the electric controls produced. Wide open and full stop isn't as desirable as modulated burn.

The cone usually sits just inside the 4" Allis Chalmers cylinder liner intake tube and the draft causes a pleasing rushing sound.

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