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Radon Mitigation System


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If the system runs into a sump crock, you may be able to caulk the plastic covers to the wall and floor and use the crock (with sealed cover) to place the vent pipe. A smoke candle would be needed to find any leaks around the walls and floor.

Most of the Beaver drains I see are allowed to run into a floor drain. Caulking the system would not work, a sump pump and crock would need to be added.

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There are too many variables to randomly begin listing them. In general, for a system to work well it needs to be able to create a slight vacuum under the majority of the slab. Many things can affect the performance of a system.

A qualified mitigation contractor would know how to do preliminary testing by drilling a series of holes and testing how well air moves under the slab of a particular building. Doing this would help them determine what type of equipment to use and how to install it.

Here's a list of qualified contractors in IL.


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If you screw it up you'll just be paying somone else to fix it. How do you know that you are going to remove enough of the radon? I've seen homeowner installs and they never measure up.


Can anyone tell me the complications I might run into putting a Radon Mitigation system in a home with a beaver drain system? It runs along the outside walls of the home.

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