tcfinishing Posted January 26, 2009 Report Share Posted January 26, 2009 I have a Mr. Heater MHU45 unit heater for my garage. Ceiling hieght is 8'-7". The heater is mounted 2" from ceiling. The sofit on the exterior drops 10" below ceilng hieght. I installed the venting with 3- 3" 26GSG 90's, 1- 3"x12" GSG single wall, 3" wall thimble and 1- 3' B1 vent with a vent termination cap. The venting drops at the 90's 6" to get it below the exterior sofit with requiered clearence. I"m told because of the drop 90's this won't pass code. Do you have any solutions to this problem? Note: If I lower the furnace to allow for direct venting the unit will be below the garage door header opening. Click to View 47.51 KB Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les Posted January 26, 2009 Report Share Posted January 26, 2009 Craig, That is one silly looking flue configuration. No, I can't think of any quick fix, given your specs. I have always had a bit of a problem with garage heaters, as they generally are installed by skilled homeowners. I would be sure what ever you come up with is safe and I'd be sure the gypsum board is sealed (taped). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bain Posted January 26, 2009 Report Share Posted January 26, 2009 I can't be certain from just this one photo, but isn't the transmogrifier installed backwards? Editor's Note: If you don't want to help some homeowner or do-it-yourselfer that happens on this site, you don't have to. However, please, if you can't say anything helpful, don't say anything at all. OT - OF!!! M. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tcfinishing Posted January 26, 2009 Author Report Share Posted January 26, 2009 Originally posted by Bain I can't be certain from just this one photo, but isn't the transmogrifier installed backwards? I'm not sure what a transmogrifier is? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
energy star Posted January 26, 2009 Report Share Posted January 26, 2009 Don't run that heater. You must go up through the roof in that application. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tcfinishing Posted January 26, 2009 Author Report Share Posted January 26, 2009 The spec say I'm allowed to horizontal vent with one 90 deg. and a max of 5 feet of pipe. Click to View 32.75 KB Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
energy star Posted January 26, 2009 Report Share Posted January 26, 2009 I know. But that run must be level from the termination point of the flue on the unit. It may also flow up hill, but never down. So many things can and will go wrong. For one, the heat exchanger will be operating at a higher temp it was designed to. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Terence McCann Posted January 26, 2009 Report Share Posted January 26, 2009 Originally posted by Bain I can't be certain from just this one photo, but isn't the transmogrifier installed backwards? That's not nice John. The post police should be along soon. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SonOfSwamp Posted January 26, 2009 Report Share Posted January 26, 2009 Originally posted by Terence McCann Originally posted by Bain I can't be certain from just this one photo, but isn't the transmogrifier installed backwards? That's not nice John. The post police should be along soon. Sigh... I'll do it. I'm in Pedant Purgatory anyhow... TRANSMOGRIFIER Definition: someone or something that can change or transform its appearance to something else WJid="blue"> Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tcfinishing Posted January 26, 2009 Author Report Share Posted January 26, 2009 What if I change the 90's to Z-flex? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Terence McCann Posted January 26, 2009 Report Share Posted January 26, 2009 Originally posted by SonOfSwamp Originally posted by Terence McCann Originally posted by Bain I can't be certain from just this one photo, but isn't the transmogrifier installed backwards? That's not nice John. The post police should be along soon. Sigh... I'll do it. I'm in Pedant Purgatory anyhow... TRANSMOGRIFIER Definition: someone or something that can change or transform its appearance to something else WJid="blue"> Twasn't aimed at you WJ. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Katen Posted January 26, 2009 Report Share Posted January 26, 2009 Originally posted by tcfinishing What if I change the 90's to Z-flex? No. The vent will still be going downhill. It can only go uphill. Vent it through the roof. - Jim Katen, Oregon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bain Posted January 26, 2009 Report Share Posted January 26, 2009 Originally posted by Terence McCann Originally posted by Bain I can't be certain from just this one photo, but isn't the transmogrifier installed backwards? That's not nice John. The post police should be along soon. You're right. Craig, I was just busting your chops. There is no transmogrifier. Thing is, though, you need to hire a professional to correctly install that furnace for you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tcfinishing Posted January 26, 2009 Author Report Share Posted January 26, 2009 Its an attached garage with bedrooms above the garage. I dont have the option of a vertical venting system. This is why I bought this model of furnace. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
energy star Posted January 26, 2009 Report Share Posted January 26, 2009 Your only option is to lower the unit. Looks like about 8-10 inches. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Terence McCann Posted January 26, 2009 Report Share Posted January 26, 2009 Originally posted by tcfinishing Its an attached garage with bedrooms above the garage. I dont have the option of a vertical venting system. This is why I bought this model of furnace. Craig, as John said, hire a professional. When I was in the trades a new tech would spend 8 years in training riding along with journeymen and spending countless hours in school. There are numerous safety issues when heating equipment is installed incorrectly, the risk of starting a fire and carbon monoxide poisoning to name a few. If I'm unsure how to do a job I call a professional. You should too. They are worth the money. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les Posted January 27, 2009 Report Share Posted January 27, 2009 Craig, Now I know there are bedrooms above the garage, I will re-stress sealing and safe proper insulation. Carbon monoxide poisoning is not even close to cost of proper installation. (read sickness, death, etc) Everyone is offering the same advice - Call a tradesperson asap. BTW, I like the word transmogrifier. You really have had some of the best folks respond with very good advice. I trust you know we are sometimes on the "dry" side, but enjoy every question! You are lucky that Mike O didn't chime in more than a para or two! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tcfinishing Posted January 27, 2009 Author Report Share Posted January 27, 2009 I have called a qualified installation company, they are coming to check my install. I was just looking for solutions to the venting problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StevenT Posted January 27, 2009 Report Share Posted January 27, 2009 Originally posted by tcfinishing Note: If I lower the furnace to allow for direct venting the unit will be below the garage door header opening. Click to View 47.51 KB If you are worried about it being below the header, I get the feeling that you installed it in the front of the garage... near the door. Can you install it lower towards the rear of the garage? If it turns out that there is no way to vent it safely, use an electric heater, or if you have hot water heat, get a hot water space heater. There are also wall mounted heaters that can be installed lower. Whatever you do, the way it is now, is NG. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Neal Lewis Posted January 27, 2009 Report Share Posted January 27, 2009 Looks like the entire exhaust vent should be a B vent. Why aren't the drywall joints taped and spackled? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bain Posted January 27, 2009 Report Share Posted January 27, 2009 Sorry, Mike. I've been feeling just the slightest bit craaazy all day. Click to View 21.58 KB © Universal Press Syndicate Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hausdok Posted January 27, 2009 Report Share Posted January 27, 2009 Originally posted by Neal Lewis Looks like the entire exhaust vent should be a B vent. Why aren't the drywall joints taped and spackled? Perhaps because it's the front wall of the garage and not a common membrane between the garage and the house. It really depends on what the jurisdication requires. OT - OF!!! Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hausdok Posted January 27, 2009 Report Share Posted January 27, 2009 Originally posted by Bain Sorry, Mike. I've been feeling just the slightest bit craaazy all day. Click to View 21.58 KB © Universal Press Syndicate Cute, there are a few new "home inspectors" running around the Seattle area right now that must have climbed out of one of those. I also thought it might have been easier to install that heater at the back of the garage instead of by the overhead door opening. OT - OF!!! M. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Terence McCann Posted January 27, 2009 Report Share Posted January 27, 2009 Is the heater rated for sidewall venting? Probably should be a gas shut off valve on the line. At least in this neck of the woods we see drip legs as well. Not a great idea to lay the gas line on the flu. Is the flue the same style recommended by the manufacture? Have the proper clearances been observed? He has found out you can't drop a flue like that. Is the flue close to any windows where it terminates outside? Is the flex gas line run in an area by a work bench? Can it be inadvertently struck by something and break? This is where a gas valve comes in handy. Hard piped would be good too but flex is easier to install. Perhaps he can run a power ventor assist for sidewall venting if the manufacture approves. Does he know how to power wire it and run it into the control circuit? We now find out there are bedrooms above the installation. Etc. My point in this is that we can't see everything at the job site looking at one picture on a computer screen. Heating equipment, when installed incorrectly, is dangerous. A professional carries all this knowledge with him when he looks at your home. He knows what can be done and more importantly what can't be done. No one is being mean spirited when we recommend calling a professional. We know the dangers of equipment that is incorrectly installed and we don't want to see Mr. or Mrs. DIY getting hurt. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tcfinishing Posted January 27, 2009 Author Report Share Posted January 27, 2009 I have decided that lowering the unit heater is my best option. This will allow the venting to run up and out as recommended by the manufacturer (1/4" / ft).The unit will hang below what code requires so I will weld a protective shroud to protect the unit. the unit heater is mounted in the back of the garage. the out side flue cap is about 15 ft away from the closest window. Click to View 40.05 KB Click to View 34.55 KB Click to View 37.45 KB Click to View 35.51 KB Click to View 31.67 KB Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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