mlparham

Just quote common sense. "The attic access opening is not large enough to remove and replace the air handler that is located in the attic. If the attic access opening is not enlarged by the builder before you buy the home then it will be your responsibility to enlarge the opening when replacement of the air handler is needed."

I agree. I have seen sagging floors in kitchens with large islands covered with granite. Throw in a cast iron country sink over a joist system designed by the lumber yard and the results are not pretty.

I agree with Scott. My house was built in the mid 80's. I could feel air entering through the receptacles by placing my hand next to them. The foam gaskets that Scott refers to work great to seal around the box.

This device might be fun (or deadly) when used in a local tavern.

Check out goinggear.com Their retail store is near me.I walked in, told them what I was looking for and walked out a few minutes later with two new lights for 80 bucks. Great people.

Did you kick it or pull on it?

A light pressure washing will make it go away.

That could kill a whole community of small families. Click to Enlarge 80.3 KB

I think I get it. If the copper water piping to the gas water heater is bonded all is good. If the water heater piping is PEX or CPVC than the gas line should be bonded. Plumbers here are bonding the hard gas line at the water heater when doing a replacement.

We're talking about the manufacturer-required bonding of the CSST pipes. As far as I know, no one anywhere recommends bonding appliance connectors. Help me get my mind around the Georgia requirement for gas appliance bonding. To me it says an electric water water heater does not need gas pipe bonding. SECTION 310 BONDING 310.1 Gas pipe bonding. Each above-ground portion of a gas piping system that is likely to become energized shall be electrically continuous and bonded to an effective ground-fault current path. Gas piping shall be considered to be bonded where it is connected to gas utilization equipment that is connected to the equipment grounding conductor or the circuit supplying that equipment. (Effective January 1, 2005)

Are you asking a question about CSST or an appliance connector? They are different.

I do smell a lot of stinky water heaters in my market now a days. Years ago it was only the old ones, in some parts of the city. Now, even ones that are only one or two years old and in homes that have never been occupied stink, once the heat to the unit has been activated.

I think that the generally accepted interpretation is that "resist" means "it doesn't break or become permanently deformed." However, if you're going to set up a test of such a rail, the test for most materials should use a safety factor of 2.5. Since a portion of the assembly in this case is glass, the safety factor would have to be increased to 4. So, effectively, the rail would have to resist a lateral load of 800# without breaking or permanently deforming. I suspect that only a few, if any, currently installed residential rail assemblies would resist a 500 pound lateral load applied under laboratory test conditions.

That's one odd ball setup. I have never seen gas feeds like the ones you have under these logs. Do you think that the home owner purchased the logs and never bothered to remove the bag?

It's hard to argue with Dad.

I am having a hard time reading your post. Have you ever heard of a paragraph?

Sit Deck. Stay. Bad Deck. Bad bad Deck. Deck, free.

That's cause I use Google Maps. Unless I cache the map, it needs a cell connection to work. I had an early GPS on my old HP pocket pc. Remember those? Back then the mapping was terrible. Now I just look it up on Google or Bing the day before I go and write down the last few turns on by steno booking pad that sits next to me on the stand in the van. That way I have a "big picture" in my mind of were I am going. Every now and then I find a great little hole in the wall for lunch. Someone mentioned pencils. These are perfectly sharpened and only $35 a pop. I can not get the link to work so Google "perfectly sharpened pencils".

I guess I'm old school. I have a stand installed next to my seat in the van and simply write down the miles I drive every day in a 3x5 note pad. My note pad has never crashed.

The key is to not design the repair. Bingo again!

Where I live, Yellow Jackets nest in the ground. You'll be mowing the lawn and the next thing you know, you're under attack. I take care of those myself by pouring gasoline in the hole. It's always done the trick. Gasoline works fine, as does kerosene, which is safer. However, if you really want to try a cool way to do it - and a much more environmentally friendly way - go out there at night, toss a piece of dry ice over the hole, and then place a bucket over the dry ice. The carbon dioxide displaces the air in the nest and suffocates them with no harmful residues or risk of fire. Or, as Jesse Pinkman would say, "Yo! It's science, bitch!" Sounds good. How do I get my ice maker to spit out some dry ice?

Your puppy must be tired of that cone on it's head.

Time to call an electrician.

I am just curious. Does any state licensing board require that the recipient of a license be able to read and write? Georgia law requires that a written report be provided. It does not require that the inspector write the report.