StevenT

If you are only trying to put a band-aid on the sill, then I don't see a problem with your choices, and I don't think "extension or no extension" makes a difference. Looking closely at your photos, and at the link you provided; I don't think your fix will fix anything other than cosmetics. You don't have a broken sill problem, you have a broken sill symptom. The problem is water intrusion. What I recommend is that you take it a step further... which may involve a little more work and a few more bucks; and correct what caused it in the first place... and will most probably reoccur. If you look at the sills in the "how to" link, you will see they are pitched (minimally) away from the building promoting drainage. Your sills appear very flat and even negatively pitched towards the building. Water that collects there is going to continue to cause damage. Especially since you indicate a limited number of windows, I would remove the entire broken existing sill, seal/flash the area and then form and pour a sill using high performance grout. It is similar to the material you are buying in the bucket, but in larger bags and about 1/3 the price. If you feel generous, you could stick a couple of pieces of coated rebar in the pour. I would suggest as much pitch away from the building as possible, and maintain equal clearance to the bottom of the window. You will be proud of your work and if you are selling your building; it will be 1 less detraction.

Hello folks, I haven't visited for a while, I hope everyone is doing well. I happened to notice this thread and thought I'd chime in. I think Barry may be onto something, and I agree that the entire envelope should be tested/evaluated.

I understand the concern about someone standing on the bench and falling over. But I wonder would it raise the same concern if it were not attached? How about if there was no bench, and there were chairs next to the railing? It is possible for someone to stand on a chair. Then again, it's also possible for someone to sit (or stand) on top of the rail and fall over. WHere does it end? Is there code that would apply for this scenerio?

I also live in NY and have a home inspectors license. There is no license (in New York) for Termite/WDI/WDO inspections, and according to NYS Dept of Environmental Conservation (DEC) no license is required to inspect for such. There is a certification by the DEC called Pesticide Applicator. The NPMA33 form is not a government form. It is a form made up by an association (National Pest Management Association), that is widely used and has been adopted by many institutions. On the form, there is a space that asks for your company business license #, and another space that asks for your creditation, registration or license #. Once you have the certification, it is easy to maintain. Once every two years, you must submit a simple form (on line) that asks how much chemical you have purchased/applied. Since this certification adds additional legitimacy to my endorsements, I see no reason not to maintain it. As far as your question about how to include the information, I only provide the NPMA33 when requested by the client (at no additional charge). It is usually only requested when the bank requests it from them. I have a section in my Home Inspection report for Infestations (Termites/WDI/WDO). This section is filled out in all reports. The report is for the client, I can include any information I wish, including explanations and photographs. The NPMA33 is for the bank. If all I did was give the client the NPMA33, I do not feel they would understand it, or get much out of it. So, in response to your question " Do most of you that have a WDI license, attach a NPMA-33 form along with your home inspection report or do you add another section to the report and discuss the WDI Inspection within the body of the home inspection report." I do both.

It is #9 (not sure of name) wire. I use it quite often when building concrete forms. You can also see it used in some chain link fencing (for lateral support). If you wrap it around two opposing points (creating a loop), take a screwdriver, or any piece of metal, you can twist the wire. The more you twist, the tighter it gets. I use it in forms to stop them from blowing out. The stuff comes in big rolls. From the picture, it looks like they were used for collar ties. Yes, it looks just like barbed wire without the barbs (after being twisted). I'm sure if you look somewhere in the middle, you will see where something was inserted to twist it.

I see mesh in the second photo, but it looks as if it is not embedded in the basecoat. If the hollow sound is insulation board, then it is EIFS. The workmanship is horrible, whatever it is.

Just like EIFS, and so many other installed materials.

There should be a flashing to allow water to drain. If the irregular shape is a problem, cut or arrange the stone to create the straight line.

I've heard stories of horses that became very sick from eating hay that had chicken feces in it.

What a great toy! I want one.

Hi Troy, Good luck. I also use HIPro, and am very happy with it. I don't use any pre-written boiler plates, I quickly found myself spending too much time looking for something that I was going to change anyway. Make sure you proof read what you write, and not what you think you wrote. I went through your report quickly, and noticed that you refer quite a bit to have things evaluated to determine if they need repair. As Jim stated, something either is, or it isn't. If calling you in to do an inspection is going to require 3 or 4 other guys to come in to determine if it is good or bad, well, it's going to be very expensive to use you. Pay attention to the input you get here at TIJ, you will find it to be the best. "it's not enough to write in a way that people can understand. You have to write in a way the people can't misunderstand." I think the above quote says it all. Remember, you are painting a verbal picture for someone who has no idea what you are referring to, and in most cases, no idea how it works.

I would think that after a certain amount of time, the area would dry out on it's own. Are you sure that the leak is repaired? Or perhaps the ants are unrelated to the prior problem.

I am almost afraid to jump in, but I will. Putting it very simply, isn't a cantilever basically a "bracket?" If so, wouldn't an overhang, whether it be the flooring system of a house or the roadway of a bridge, that is supported by these "brackets," be considered "cantilevered?" When I think of a beam that is overhanging, and the forces that it creates, I think of a lever. The longer the overhang, the stronger the force... just like any lever. The cantilever supports against these forces, so that the beam cant lever.

Good set up.

May I ask why? I don't see that many hot water circulation systems, but all that I have seen are on timers, some on fancy 7-day programmable ones. Seems like a good idea to me. Why would you need instant hot water in the middle of the night or during the day if no one is usually home? I doubt the pump uses that much power but you are also going to lose some heat during the circulation. Now...if you live in an area where water is constantly in short supply and a bigger issue than power, I can see setting it up differently. Hi Richard, There is a better way... at the same cost. Instead of controlling the pump with a timer, that will operate at pre determined times only, I use an aquastat. It simply bolts onto the pipe, and monitors the temperature of the loop. When the temperature of the loop drops, it turns on the pump. This will give you "instant" hot water anytime, any day. You simply install it, and forget it. I've put in a few instant systems, some have had different needs, so my mind set is different. I guess if limiting to small residential, where folks basically bathe in the morning and/or the evening, and don't care about the rest of the time, a timer with limited settings will be ok. A 7 day programmable is nice if you can plan that far ahead. Personally, if you asked me what time I will be taking a bath next week, I couldn't answer you. Sometimes I get home at 3PM, sometimes 9PM. Sometimes I awake at 4AM, sometimes at 7AM, etc. An "instant loop" is pure luxary, not necessity (in most cases). If I am installing a luxary option, I want it to work all the time, not sometimes. Perhaps my use or the word "poor," was strong. But there are too many reasons why using a timer doen't make sense to me, especially when there is a better way.

IMO, controlling the circulator pump with a timer is a poor way of setting up the instant system.

It is said that there are three sides to every story, so without full knowledge, I won't pass judgement. But, how does an air conditioner become dissassembled?

I've thought about voice rec. Is there one program that is better than the others? Or one that is easier to learn/teach? Is one more accurate than the others?

What does the rest of the property look like? Curtain drains and swales sound good, so long as you have the elevation for them to pitch/drain. If not, you may need to install a sump pit and pump. Even then, where will the pump drain to?

Did the previous owners have a pet mouse?

Could ventilation blockage be the cause of this discoloration. Attic is ventilated by eaves vents/exhaust fan. The eaves are blocked with insulation. Under the small vent cover, there is a 6" x 10" vent hole cut into the roof, next to the ex. fan. Because they are so close to each other, combined with the blockage causing neg. pressure be the cause? Click to Enlarge 57.75 KB.

I agree that motorized louvres may not be necessary. Insulate the pipes, and keep an eye on them during exceptional cold periods. The system I installed it on only operated during business hours and besides freezing during off hours, maintaining the heat was a concern.

There is more than enough door and boarded window to vent without going through the stone foundation. I would put two vents, one high and one low. I put in a set up like Mike is describing, for a 500,000K boiler, it worked fine. The vents only opened when the system was firing. Grainger sells the motorized vent covers in a variety of sizes. They really aren't expensive.

Well, I don't know if it's a question, or comfirmation. I was respondinding to a comment elsewhere, and lets say I was challanged. I knew I was right, just wanted to possibly get some verbage to post. Thanks for asking though.

It sounds like it lit up like a light bulb. If it were wire, or a metal object heavier that the circuit wiring, what do you think would have happened?