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John, I just went through this a few weeks ago. I went with Trane. Can't really go wrong with Trane, Carrier or Lennox. Lennox is more expensive, at least around me. The new Buzz Phrase is:"The Higher the SEER Number the lower the utility bills." That is true however, with the cost of a higher SEER it probably won't pay for itself like a lot of people claim it does. Unless of course the utility companies quadruple their rates. Which is possible also. I would keep that in mind. I ended up going with a 15 SEER configuration, and if I went 16 SEER it would have been at least $800 more, and I bought my equipment wholesale. Frank

I've seen that quite a few times. Hell, I was involved with a 6 unit association. We paid $189 a month, in a 100+year old building with a 3 year old rehab and roof. If something would have gone drastically wrong, we all would have been screwed. If I had to do it all again, I would move into a much bigger association, where it's more of a business to manage it, than neighbors trying to act nice to each other. Frank

This is a brick foundation with aluminum siding. I haven't seen this much of an overlap before. What kind of protection is usually under the siding? Any help is appreciated. Frank Image Insert: 171.63 KB Image Insert: 130.68 KB

5 ton seems excessive for a 2600 Sq Ft home. Around my area HVAC Installers differ a little bit, but a rule of thumb is 600 - 1000 Sq Ft per ton. (Our average AC use is from June to Sept usually.) Frank

You should think about erosion control, and flooding. The FEMA Website could be helpful. If you have a well system you should get the water quality tested regularly. I'm sure there's more, and others will chime in... Frank

There should be soffit venting. More about Power Venting, from Air Vent Check the 6th Bullet point under Design Considerations. Frank

I seem to be having some trouble locating the requirements for Sill Plate Gaskets in the IRC. Can anybody help me. I feel like my eyes are going to pop out my head... Thanks, Frank

I think that response itself justifies the need for brochures. In my area its just the opposite. Brochures just get thrown away in the offices. IMO - In your Family Inspection page, you should add a photo of your family, I think people like that instead of some stock photo. Frank

Last July I inspected a home which had some water leakage issues in the crawlspace along the attached garage foundation wall. This is where the water service is located. The client ended up not buying. At the time I recommended calling the water utility company to investigate further, (Verbally) knowing the water company would test it to make sure it's not there water especially since it would probably be leaking before the meter. Got a call today from another buyer's realtor asking about the same issue. Don't know how they got my report from last year, or knew that I did the inspection. I told her pretty much the same thing, and also suggested my services for her client. I am wondering if anyone does their own chlorine testing, or other testing to determine if leakage could be from a potable water supply. I'm trying to make contact with a technician from the water company to see what exactly they use. Just thought I would ask... Frank

Hi Steven, I think the epoxy Kurt is referring to, is the epoxy around the pipe, to seal up the hole in the wall. There are some white blotches on the fittings, chances are there is some kind of thread compound on there, especially if it's not leaking. It could be an old gas service entrance. Knowing that area, you'll probably never see more than 10psi after the meter. Frank

Spaghetti Factory, (Or maybe Noodle Factory) Frank

That can't feel to good, bare foot in the middle of the night....

.[:-boggled Good one Kurt[] Frank

I think I misread your first post. Is that thing inside an outlet or inlet? Plastic cap? Is that where the anode rod is suppose to go? Frank

That looks very strange. Never seen a female nipple before, or what ever that is. It could be some kind of dielectric nipple, but you should see a little bit of plastic on top, so I doubt it. The only time I've seen nipple shipped, were for big 100 gallon commercial WH. Those usually came with 1-1/2" Dielectric Nipples, but male ends on both sides. Also they just came with the WH, never installed. Could damage the inner threads. That WH might have been returned, then resold. As Jim said it doesn't look like regular galv, but it could be chromed. Almost makes you want to read the manual. (Oh no not that!!!) Frank

Aluminum fins. I guess that compressor was just to heavy. If they were really hungry, they would of taken all that scrap, and the gutters. At least the downspouts. Frank

100th Street Code - Evergreen Park. I guess you live right around 100th Street? Frank

A lot of things could happen to cause the toilet to siphon out. Back when I did service calls a lot of times there was something stuck in the trapway. Such as wad of TP, or feminine hygiene product. Might recommend the owner to purchase a Rigid K-3 Toilet Auger. $25 or so at HD. And try to see if anything gets stuck on the end of it, such as paper. (I'm sure everybody has a plunger, but an auger is handy as well, and I would never recommend anything else but Rigid K-3 with a bulb head. It's great for cleaning toilet trap ways.) Blockage in their main drain lines could cause an extra siphoning, if not vented properly/adequately Inadequate venting could also cause this. There maybe just enough venting for that toilet when it's flushed, but if there is a surge in the main sewer line around their house, this could cause traps in that house to siphon out. Never rule out the phenomenon of the wind playing a role. ( I had always doubted that theory, until a few years ago, when it was the only logical explanation, but that is a long, long story) Frank

Lets say you're stuck in a house, on a deserted island, which gets very hot during the day, and very cold at night. Along comes an Aladdin's Lamp, and a Genie pops out, and grants you one wish. You wish for a 2 stage variable speed 90 plus furnace, and a 16 SEER A/C. He asks you which brand, but only offers you Trane, or Carrier. Which would you choose? Already spending my economic stimulus check, Frank

Found this looking into jerkinhead roofing. jerkinhead/clipped gable Frank

Aren't they kind of close to the operative windows as well? Frank

According to the Furnace age chart, in the Library, Popular Files: The letter "G" is the third letter in the serial number, it was manufactured in 1977 or 1998. I assume the chart covers York A/C's as well.

I've seen them a lot around older homes, usually connected to an outside catch basin. Frank

Big blue-white arc, with a loud ZZZZZTid="size4"> Noise

When using step flashing how much should be revealed? Image Insert: 129.06 KB