msteger

Can't say I've ever even seen a gas line bonded around here.

I would have guessed that minerals in the water would have sealed the leak(s) over time.

I would agree with Speedy, but it would depend upon the AHJ. If they require the electrical system to be brought up to current code when a specific upgrade is done, they may not require AFCI protection at the bedroom receptacles, smokies, ceiling fan/light, etc. In my area, for example, I don't think any AHJ's require this for an older home with a new panel/service. If it was a flip and the electrical system was entirely redone, most would though.

I don't think I've ever seen gas piping (black iron or CSST) bonded in any homes I've inspected in the past 6 or so years. Maybe they don't require this in PA or at least in my area.

Ditto to what you guys said. Any mods to trusses should be approved by the manufacturer or structural engineer. Was that pulldown ladder in a garage or somewhere else in the home? Pulldown ladders with wooden covers don't belong in garages (attached) due to fire wall reasons.

Can't say I've ever seen CSST installed against the underside of a roof. Seems like common sense, but hey, common sense is not so common.

I see these a few times a year. I also refer the client to a septic company as I don't want anything to do with these things.

I see this all of the time. Always figured someone screwed up.

How would the avg home inspector know this without having the thermostat's manual handy? Same question goes for the avg home owner. How would they ever know how to put on backup heat?

Can't say I've ever seen a system like that either.

I see this type of install on mobile homes (filter sits inside the door). Not great, but it works. This is the only return.

The material, I believe, is permitted even if the install is questionable.

Must have been designed by a mechanical engineer. (I am an electrical engineer)

Ditto to what Eric says. I typically use 62 degs as my cutoff for heat/cool with heat pumps. Some manufactures use 60 degs for A/C and HPs, some use 65 degs or 66 degs. I choose 62 since its in the middle. I also do NOT run backup heat mode when the outside temp is above 62 degs. I note in my report that I could only test the HP in cool mode due to outside temp and the HP's heating function (including operation of the backup or auxiliary heat) was not tested. I further explain that by doing so (running HP in heat mode above 62 degs), damage could occur to the system. I did once get a call from a client 6 months after the home inspection stating that the HVAC just left the house and he determined that there was no backup heat installed in their HP. I asked her to read her report to me in the Heating section and I clearly stated what I mentioned above. About all I do in the cooling months regarding HPs in heat mode, however, is verify that there is a "Em Heat" or other similar notation on the thermostat indicating there is a backup source installed. Lately, I have seen several instances of new thermostats installed that did not indicate any "EM Heat" option. I opined that the installed thermostat may not be designed to run a HP. Also, seeing if there are some large rated breakers on the air handler or breaker panel (and labeled for HP) can help indicate the presence of backup heat source.

But hey guys, "it hasn't led to a fire yet.."

Yep, I recommend wire nuts and junction boxes for all exposed wire junctions, terminations, etc.

Maybe the guy got sloppy knowing it was getting dark or about to start raining. Why the heck the roofer even used the shingles is the real issue. Sloppy work.

Can't say I've ever seen PVC roofing in my area (PA). Anyone on the east coast seen it around here?

I recommend a clean/service and evaluation of the unit's drafting by a qualified HVAC professional. Installing a proper rain cap is recommended as well.

I agree.. Contact the manufacturer and have them provide a letter. Give that to the builder and demand a new furnace. That water could have caused quite a bit of unforeseen internal damage, including heat exchangers with holes.

If the tank was still in use and was holding fuel oil, I would definitely have it replaced. All of that weight could cause a major catastrophe, possible injury, and oil spill. Being abandoned, simply have it removed. Initially, from the 1st photo, I couldn't tell what I was looking at.

If lights are flickering when the unit comes on, I would expect a very large current draw and that would make me think of a compressor issue. This appears to be your situation. Is the A/C system separate from the heating system (is your home heated with electric baseboard or a boiler) ? $5k does sound rather high for a 2 ton compressor and evaporator coil.

That is sort of what I was also thinking. Alot of those cleaning solutions work fine for normally cleaning, but if you leave it in there for too long, it can cause damage.

If the appliance "requires 30 Amps" (has a 30 Amp max load rating), I may even be inclined to use a 40 Amp circuit. What type of appliance is it? What does the label or manual give as the electrical requirement?

I agree with what the others above say. I recommend all breakers/fuses be labeled and those that are labeled (if any) be verified. I explain to my client that a licensed electrician can do this pretty easily. I look at the individual breaker ratings and the branch wiring going to each. If they don't match (wire gauge vs. current rating), I call it out as a potential fire hazard and evidence of non-professional electrical work. I organize my report by system.. roof, exterior, attic, plumbing, electrical, basement, etc. We all have our own ways of presenting the home inspection report to the client.