Tom Raymond

It's nautical. Click to Enlarge 58.11 KB Pic borrowed from yostwerks.com

Greater than 50% RH indoors is hideously uncomfortable, not to mention moist enough to grow all sorts of stuff. I just looked at a ranch house built in 04, a pole barn over a full basement with two zone hydronic radiant heat, completely clad in steel. My humidistat went berserk when I took it out of my pocket. In less than 20 seconds the readings went something like: 21, 34, 45, 62, 74, then froze on 88. I reset it twice and installed new batteries, same result. The homeowner had analog gauges in several rooms of the house reading 57 to 68% with indoor temps in the low 60's. It was so muggy in there that I broke a sweat doing an IR scan. And to think I was called out to diagnose a condensation problem[:-banghea

You can have multi level zones with hydronic heating but you will need balancing valves between levels. Haven't you ever been in a two story house with single zone hydronic heat? If you wish to turn off a room it needs to be on it's own zone. If you do set it apart you control it from the thermostat and won't need the ball valve.

Thanks Jim. I love to start my day with a smile.

Yes, I do. People that make stupid decisions do so out of habit. Hard wiring an appliance cord won't be the only dangerous connection in that building. He knows it's wrong, otherwise he wouldn't be fishing for permission on an internet forum.

It would be far more watchable if the speaker didn't sound like... Click to Enlarge 21.31 KB

The temp prob on mine will read up to 2000 deg F. I'm sure Ill do that often with the generous 24" lead. [:-hot]

I say screen printing materials are extremely flammable, and his wiring method has excellent ignition potential.

Apparently you were wrong about the smileys.

I suggest a roll of flourescent grip tape. One could easily mark all of the step edges in that room and have tape to spare.

Thank you. Just for fun, I ran some of his blather through the Fog and got a low of 12.07 and a high of 18.64. Apparently the lack of punctuation skews the results a bit.

If they don't lift the tab to nail the loose end there is no curl. Problem solved.

It's a cool toy. I was really amazed that passages I thought were very similar scored very differently. I was disappointed that simple words were given so much weight, 'safety' and 'emergency' pushed a sentence above 11. That's third and fourth grade vocabulary. My copyright statement scores a 10.0. "? 2011 Clear Creek Home Inspection Services. All rights reserved. DO NOT DUPLICATE WITHOUT PERMISSION."

Does anyone really need to read any further than this line to know what this report is worth? "SPORE TRAP REPORT: NON-VIABLE METHODOLOGY"

It'll work just fine. Don't back in, pull in.

It was installed right, the mice unscrewed it.

As dicked up as that is, I'd wager it isn't where the water is getting in the wall. When that kind of poor detailing leaks the damage is almost always at the corners. When water is dripping from the top of a door or window the leak is well above the unit and coming out at the first available opening through the wall. Whoever goes out to fix that needs to look up above the door and figure out what else is fooked up. How is the recovery going Denny?

In that case, call a different one.

It's a stretch, 'cause it's about slabs, but it is exactly the same issue and it's written by a PE. http://houstonslabfoundations.com/?p=110 If that were to happen here I'd file an official complaint against the appraiser for performing a home inspection without a license. I might even cc the bank.

At least they're breakers, fuses would be really hard to change with your toes.[:-dev3]

You'd better remember to put the seat down!

None of the door manufacturers I deal with are using it yet.

That would be 100 square inches, or less, of 1/4 inch wire glass in a rated frame assembly. You should also be aware that hundreds of people are severly injured every year in accidents involving wire glass, because it is not impact resistant, and that many jurisdictions are prohibiting it's use.

You were actually able to find the form?

If I were going to build new and cost were no object, it would be closed cell sprayed in everywhere. Since cost is always a consideration, I'd be forced into flash and fill-closed cell foam and cellulose is good stuff. If your bent on batts, you'll need to caulk everything with non-expanding foam, place rigid foam in all the cavities and then finish off with batts. If your paying for labor flash and fill is cheaper. EDIT: If your really bent on using batts forget fiberglass. I'd be thinking rock wool, recycled cotton, or hemp. That said, additions are tricky things. You need to balance the new against the performance of the old. Not only will there be no ROI spray foaming a 300 SF family room on the back of '60s split level, you may actually freeze yourself out of the old house.