gpdewitt

2009 IRC, section 202 Definitions: HOT WATER. Water at a temperature greater than or equal to 110 degrees F. CRC (California) has it at 120 degrees. Depends on your state, etc. I guess. Max recommended temp. is 120 for scald safety.

Have you used your stick for crawlspace or attics, and how did that work out? Also, I think I can throw one of these together for about $500 with wi-fi enabled 5mp color camera with monitor and sectional stick from concrete finishers tools. What advantage does the eye stick have over DIY, other than convenience of only one purchase? Thanks in advance.

1933 conventional wood frame over slab 1 story house in Long Beach, CA. Originally had knob and tube wiring. This is at the top of one gable end. Please ignore black wires, they are CATV. I'm not sure if this is electrical or what. I found no evidence elsewhere of a lightning rod system. Because of the low slope roof, I was unable to see this area in the attic. Anyone seen one of these before, know what it's purpose is? Click to Enlarge 38.38 KB

As I understand it, these circulators can wear out copper pipes prematurely by "scouring" the pipe with continuously running water, so the timer is also beneficial to the plumbing. Set to be on only during potential use hours.

John - isn't that top track too short? Shouldn't the wheel always be inside the track even when the door is closed?

For awhile there, the conduits and boxes WERE the equipment grounding method. My 1964 home was built with grounded receptacles (3 prong) which relied on conduits for grounding.

There is a dome house in Florida, www.domeofahome.com, where they used it to cover the entire building, you might contact them for an opinion as to how it hold up.

I have heard, but not confirmed for every manufacturer, that electric water heaters have built in cutoffs for temp and pressure. That said, code is indeed code, there is no exclusion for electric WH. Those pressure relief valves on both units are NOT TPR valves, they are pressure relief valves only, and if the plumber who installed them thought they were in compliance with code for TPRs, he was wrong.

I worked on the set of the HBO show "Deadwood", the costumer had a device similar to that for sizing hats. Apparently, quite common in the old days. Here are some pics of a water heater, natural gas fired, seen here in Pasadena, CA at Heritage Square, a place dedicated to preserving some of our earliest homes. Click to Enlarge 61.44 KB Click to Enlarge 61.35 KB Click to Enlarge 49.44 KB Click to Enlarge 44.86 KB

Why did the plumber adapt the size of the line up and then back down to it's original size? Maybe a device to prevent water hammer? A place to drain for winterization?

OK, let's say that the wood platform is built like a train trestle, what else is wrong with the platform? It's missing a drip pan, that's what. A water heater will always leak at some point, then the wood will rot and you know the rest. Out here in CA, there are a number of other items may be wrong, YMMV. Should have: flex water connectors, flex gas connector, gas sediment trap, earthquake bracing straps, TPR line extended to the outside of the building and terminating within 2' of ground pointed down, protection from car(as you said). I consider all of these safety issues, none are mere minor code. You're right, it must be moved if only to comply with safety related code re: clearance around the electrical panel. Also agree with Denray, don't see much slope in vents. A disaster waiting to happen, soon...

It's called a manifold. It is designed to distribute water to several locations and looks like it may have a valve on each line. This set up can be used for radiant heating in several zones or rooms (or even snow/ice removal on outdoor walks and driveways), or it can be for water supply lines for an entire house. Some newer houses are plumbed with PEX "home runs" from each fixture to the manifold. You will have to find the source of the water and hopefully where it goes to know what it's use is. Might have to ask the current owner or their representative.

Brick veneer is installed around the joists, the joists were there first. Look at how the bricks run and are cut to go around the wood. I'd be looking for flashing above the joists and rot near where they touch the brick. As for the diagonal crack, one of your photos shows a downspout emptying next to the wall. Are there any other drainage issues, especially near that corner of the building? Building settlement can sometimes be stopped/prevented with better drainage.

Article 250 of the NEC has grounding/bonding requirements that apply to both CSST and ducts, if that helps.

Glazed ceramic tiles? They come in a variety of surfaces, from totally glossy, which is a WALL tile only if you want your bones to remain intact, to fairly rough for exterior walkways etc. so they're not slippery when wet. Never seen ones as rough as 80 grit, but I see no reason they couldn't be made. There is no reason to seal glazed ceramic or porcelain tile. Porous tile, like clay spanish tile or concrete tile is usually sealed and must be maintained with some sort of seal on a regular basis to prevent absorption of stains, or water and deterioration if outdoors. Seal comes glossy or semi-gloss, but not gritty. There is grit available as a paint additive for painted decks to prevent slipping, and I suppose it could be added to seal, but I've never seen it done. Sounds like someone used a floor tile on the counters. I'd be concerned about it grinding the bottoms of my fine china.

I worked in an office that had it, held up well to heavy traffic. It's been my experience with all sheet flooring that installing with a seam doesn't hold up well. This stuff is no exception. If it were my floor, I'd want to get it done without any seams, or I would find another material.

Is there somewhere else, as far from the house as possible, to route that downspout to? Add up the square footage of roof that is draining to that one spot, multiply by inches of rain, you may be surprised how much water is being collected and dumped in front of the house. I had the same problem starting just after the roofers decided to install gutters and downspouts (HOA), but left them to dump right by the foundation. After leading the water away with an extension, problem cleared up. Why not try the least expensive fix first? Couldn't hurt.

Looks like the intended place for the fridge to me too. If so, how would you more seasoned inspectors write it?

Watts does not have a version, at least that I could find. On further research, I found this: This water heater is equipped with a high limit control switch that is designed to shut off the power to the elements if the water temperature exceeds170°F at: http://www.americanwaterheater.com/support/manuals/energysmart.pdf So what I had in mind is built in, at least in this water heater. Still need a pressure relief valve and pipe properly routed.

Thanks Mike. I understand the dangers and responsibilities. I also understand there are valves to shut off gas to a water heater in the event it overheats. My question was: Is there an equivalent valve for electric water heaters, designed to cut off the electricity if it overheats? Perhaps I clouded the issue with too much situational info.

I saw many electric water heaters in an apartment building installed in hall closets with no TPR valve at all (tick, tick, tick). I doubt the new owner will shell out for plumbing the valves to the outside of the building, as required. Are there Watts or other pressure sensing valves designed to cut off electricity to a water heater?

Violates code here in CA to plumb the tpr line into the pan under the WH. In fact, it must terminate outside 6-24" from the ground. When this is an expensive safety upgrade, I recommend a Watts. Looks like an old vent on a newer WH, there's a good chance it doesn't meet the manufacturers installation requirements.

The metal ground from the motor, cabinet, etc. of an appliance through the cord, receptacle, cable, distribution panel and into the ground offers much less resistance to current than if the path is through the cabinet, through your body, and then to ground through whatever else you are touching, even a grounded plumbing fixture. Electricity takes the path of least resistance. Does not matter a bit whether the earth is a good conductor or not, that resistance is overcome by the 8' ground rod, 10' of METAL water pipe and/or Ufer foundation rebar grounding system.

I've also found them crushed. Found one metal flex between the dryer and the (1 foot long) solid vent to exterior that was fully extended to TEN FEET and then practically tied in a knot to fit it behind dryer and then mashed up against gas supply line! People had lint all over the room and couldn't figure it out. Cut flex down to 3 feet long, excising ripped part, and all was well. Also, lint (or sock or whatever) could be somewhere between lint trap and outlet in the dryer, hardware stores sell a special long thin brush you can use to clean this area. Sold as a brush to clean refrigerator coils.

Looks like it. Stuff is good for many uses, but ducts are not one of them. Adhesive will dry out and let go, usually in 6-18 months. HVAC pros will not use it, there are other tapes for ducts that do hold up.