Les Posted September 9, 2010 Report Share Posted September 9, 2010 Am I just being picky? Seems everyone except me thinks this is just fine! Click to Enlarge 44.21 KB Click to Enlarge 26.06 KB Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hausdok Posted September 9, 2010 Report Share Posted September 9, 2010 Hi Les, You'd think that they could have placed that tee about 10 inches higher and could have avoided that. It's an FVIR water heater with a sealed opening and a sight glass so there won't be any rollout that could damage the valve. I dunno, give the guy a Darwin award but unless that valve were subjected to rollout I guess it'd be OK. We don't have 'em like that around hee - too rigid - that's almost always a flexible stainless steel connector. ONE TEAM - ONE FIGHT!!! Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mgbinspect Posted September 9, 2010 Report Share Posted September 9, 2010 MLS marketing statement: Gas water heater with a pre-heated gas burning system and an 'ever-warm' emergency shutoff valve handle. This home is designed with both technology and every creature comfort in mind. Must see to believe!" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark P Posted September 9, 2010 Report Share Posted September 9, 2010 Seems there would be a concern with corrision going from galvanized to black iron to copper to galvanized. Is galvanized even an approved gas line anymore? I see it in old house, but never in new installs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kurt Posted September 9, 2010 Report Share Posted September 9, 2010 He was working off the existing tee. It's an FVIR, don't know why it would be a problem other than displaying the guy's an idiot. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mgbinspect Posted September 9, 2010 Report Share Posted September 9, 2010 It is a lot of potential leak points right in front of the burner chamber. I suppose that's not the best arangement. I've found leaks many times on that stretch of supply line. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hausdok Posted September 9, 2010 Report Share Posted September 9, 2010 Again, As Kurt pointed out; it's an FVIR. That chamber is sealed with a door and has a little glass porthole to look through. Even if there were a gas leak, it wouldn't be exposed to the flame. There is no heat or flame there when you take the puff shield off. The air inlets for combustion on an FVIR are those perforations you see. ONE TEAM - ONE FIGHT!!! Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mgbinspect Posted September 9, 2010 Report Share Posted September 9, 2010 Padon' my little phone doesn't offer much of a photo and I thought you had aid "If" It was a sealed chamber. My bad. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phillip Posted September 9, 2010 Report Share Posted September 9, 2010 This is a FVIR but look at the label with the gas can and fumes. Click to Enlarge 34.08 KB I guess I'm being too picky. Click to Enlarge 47.36 KB Its in the garage closet Click to Enlarge 35.44 KB Yes I wrote up the missing pipe on the TPR valve. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bain Posted September 9, 2010 Report Share Posted September 9, 2010 Seems there would be a concern with corrision going from galvanized to black iron to copper to galvanized. Is galvanized even an approved gas line anymore? I see it in old house, but never in new installs. It was banned here for several years, but now it's permissable, again. Don't know why. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brandon Whitmore Posted September 9, 2010 Report Share Posted September 9, 2010 One way to try and get them to change it would be to write up the fact that the sediment trap is on the wrong side of the gas valve, at least according to recent standards. Since it is an FVIR water heater, I don't see a problem with the valve placement. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Raymond Posted September 9, 2010 Report Share Posted September 9, 2010 There's enough fittings and nipples there to fix it. Might be faster and easier than writing it up. You do carry pipe dope, don't you?[:-dev3] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Saunders Posted September 11, 2010 Report Share Posted September 11, 2010 Steel to copper and lack of a drip pan is what I'd write up,unless it was in a garage. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les Posted September 11, 2010 Author Report Share Posted September 11, 2010 Richard, Regional differences. I review abt 1,000 inspections each year and see only 3-4 drip pans. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brandon Whitmore Posted September 11, 2010 Report Share Posted September 11, 2010 Regional differences. I review abt 1,000 inspections each year and see only 3-4 drip pans. For many of the newer water heaters I see that still have the installation instructions sitting in the sleeve, they require a pan, often with a drain to the exterior, any time leakage could cause damage. Bradford White water heaters: This water heater must be located in an area where leakage of the tank, water line connections, or the combination temperature and pressure relief valve will not result in damage to the area adjacent to the water heater or to lower floors of the structure. When such locations cannot be avoided, a suitable drain pan must be installed under the water heater. The drain pan must have a minimum length and width of at least 4 in. (10.2 cm) greater than the diameter of the water heater and must not restrict proper combustion air flow to the water heater. The drain pan, as described above, can be purchased from your plumbing professional. The drain pan must be piped to an adequate drain. The piping must be at least 3/4 in. (1.9 cm) in diameter and pitched for proper drainage. http://www.bradfordwhite.com/images/sha ... 93-00A.pdf Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Saunders Posted September 11, 2010 Report Share Posted September 11, 2010 I guess it would depend on what code they are using. This is from the IRC: P2801.5 Required pan. Where water heaters or hot water storage tanks are installed in locations where leakage of the tanks or connections will cause damage, the tank or water heater shall be installed in a galvanized steel pan having a minimum thickness of 24 gage (0.016 inch) (0.4 mm) or other pans for such use. Listed pans shall comply with CSA LC3. P2801.5.1 Pan size and drain. The pan shall be not less than 1.5 inches (38 mm) deep and shall be of sufficient size and shape to receive all dripping and condensate from the tank or water heater. The pan shall be drained by an indirect waste pipe having a minimum diameter of 3/4 inch (19 mm) or the outlet diameter of the relief valve, whichever is larger. P2801.5.2 Pan drain termination. The pan drain shall extend full-size and terminate over a suitably located indirect waste receptor or shall extend to the exterior of the building and terminate not less than 6 inches (152 mm) and not more than 24 inches (610mm)above the adjacent ground surface. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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