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Too picky?


Les
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Hi Les,

You'd think that they could have placed that tee about 10 inches higher and could have avoided that.

It's an FVIR water heater with a sealed opening and a sight glass so there won't be any rollout that could damage the valve. I dunno, give the guy a Darwin award but unless that valve were subjected to rollout I guess it'd be OK.

We don't have 'em like that around hee - too rigid - that's almost always a flexible stainless steel connector.

ONE TEAM - ONE FIGHT!!!

Mike

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Again,

As Kurt pointed out; it's an FVIR. That chamber is sealed with a door and has a little glass porthole to look through. Even if there were a gas leak, it wouldn't be exposed to the flame. There is no heat or flame there when you take the puff shield off. The air inlets for combustion on an FVIR are those perforations you see.

ONE TEAM - ONE FIGHT!!!

Mike

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Seems there would be a concern with corrision going from galvanized to black iron to copper to galvanized. Is galvanized even an approved gas line anymore? I see it in old house, but never in new installs.

It was banned here for several years, but now it's permissable, again. Don't know why.

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Regional differences. I review abt 1,000 inspections each year and see only 3-4 drip pans.

For many of the newer water heaters I see that still have the installation instructions sitting in the sleeve, they require a pan, often with a drain to the exterior, any time leakage could cause damage.

Bradford White water heaters:

This water heater must be located in an area where leakage of the tank, water line connections, or the combination temperature and pressure relief valve will not result in damage to the area adjacent to the water heater or to lower floors of the structure. When such locations cannot be avoided, a suitable drain pan must be installed under the water heater. The drain pan must have a minimum length and width of at least 4 in. (10.2 cm) greater than the diameter of the water heater and must not restrict proper combustion air flow to the water heater. The drain pan, as described above, can be purchased from your plumbing professional. The drain pan must be piped to an adequate drain. The piping must be at least 3/4 in. (1.9 cm) in diameter and pitched for proper drainage.

http://www.bradfordwhite.com/images/sha ... 93-00A.pdf

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I guess it would depend on what code they are using. This is from the IRC:

P2801.5 Required pan. Where water heaters or hot water storage

tanks are installed in locations where leakage of the tanks

or connections will cause damage, the tank or water heater shall

be installed in a galvanized steel pan having a minimum thickness

of 24 gage (0.016 inch) (0.4 mm) or other pans for such

use. Listed pans shall comply with CSA LC3.

P2801.5.1 Pan size and drain. The pan shall be not less

than 1.5 inches (38 mm) deep and shall be of sufficient size

and shape to receive all dripping and condensate from the

tank or water heater. The pan shall be drained by an indirect

waste pipe having a minimum diameter of 3/4 inch (19 mm)

or the outlet diameter of the relief valve, whichever is larger.

P2801.5.2 Pan drain termination. The pan drain shall extend

full-size and terminate over a suitably located indirect

waste receptor or shall extend to the exterior of the building

and terminate not less than 6 inches (152 mm) and not more

than 24 inches (610mm)above the adjacent ground surface.

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