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Mini split lines frosting up


John Dirks Jr
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I know it’s surface temp on that tool. Although,  the fireplace remote has a room temp display  on it.  It was reading 81 degrees 4’ off the floor.  So the temp 8’ up the wall above the evap core can’t be lower than that.  I can’t see the evap coil by looking through the louvre on the front of the unit.  That 45 degree reading was off the edge of the blower wheel which is plastic.  So I doubt the air temp at that point is much higher. 

Im not convinced that I’m substantially off the mark with those readings.  But I could be wrong. 

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1 hour ago, John Dirks Jr said:

I know it’s surface temp on that tool. Although,  the fireplace remote has a room temp display  on it.  It was reading 81 degrees 4’ off the floor.  So the temp 8’ up the wall above the evap core can’t be lower than that.  I can’t see the evap coil by looking through the louvre on the front of the unit.  That 45 degree reading was off the edge of the blower wheel which is plastic.  So I doubt the air temp at that point is much higher. 

Im not convinced that I’m substantially off the mark with those readings.  But I could be wrong. 

Get a mercury or thermocouple thermometer and check it.  That huge delta T might be a result of sampling the evaporator coil temperature.  What Jim and Bill said.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Do I get to say "I told you so"? 

BTW, I love UEI test equipment for cheap things like thermometers. It's hits the perfect point between being affordable and accurate enough for what we do. Plus, they have headquarters 30 minutes away from me. When I have a UEI device that breaks down, I walk into their shop with it and they fix it or replace it for me on the spot. 

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Don’t count your chickens just yet Jim.  But maybe you can say “I told you so”. We will see but It’s been 10 days since the system was charged.  I just tested with this tool today and the system may still have a leak.  It might be partially leaked out.  It’s still cooling satisfactorily as of now.  I’m not gonna mess with it for now.  But if it has to get charged again, I will test temps immediately after such.  At that point I may be due a full bore “told you so” 

This thing has variable operating modes depending on conditions so it’s not really easy tell exactly what it’s doing at a given time point. .  Not like the standard systems that are either on, or off. 

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7 hours ago, John Dirks Jr said:

This thing has variable operating modes depending on conditions so it’s not really easy tell exactly what it’s doing at a given time point. .  Not like the standard systems that are either on, or off. 

With incoming air at 72 degrees dry bulb, and output air at 55 degree dry bulb, that would be a perfect temperature differential if the incoming air was at 62 degrees wet bulb - which I imagine is just about right for Maryland in June. You don't want much more aggressive cooling or you risk poor humidity control. 

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I sure hope the performance holds.  Otherwise, it’s back to leak hunting. I’ve got my Arlo wireless security cam positioned to remotely monitor the refrigerant lines to see if they freeze up.  There’s an orange ribbon tied to the grill which I can see fluttering on the cam when the unit is running.   Obviously,  it’s not running in this picture. 

9376642D-2484-46D8-B7A3-35BE1FA7C7E5.png

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  • 4 months later...

So, back in June leak sealer was injected into the system and it was topped off with refrigerant.  It’s been running perfect ever since with no leak down.   Just the other day it was 24 degrees outside.   I called for heat at a high demand and the head unit was able to produce 110 degree airflow.  This is without an electric backup coil as this system does not have one. Impressive performance I think.  Here is the actual sealer produce that was used. 
 

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B077Y3CNMW/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apip_qmXRwt1flUD97

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