mjr6550

Looks like structural deck pan designed to bond with the concrete and serve as tension reinforcement (in place of rebar).

Location does make a difference. I'm guessing rural south. In the Philadelphia suburbs in many areas $150,000 to $200,000 could be a good price. Some other areas twice that much could be a good price.

I can't tell from the photos whether there are drainage slots in the steel deck pan. I see something, but that may be dimples to create composite action with the concrete. The few cases where I have seen concrete on deck pan exposed to the whether they have not looked good. Seams like it is easy for water to get in and no so easy to get out. The corrosion at what I assume is the house foundation wall suggests that the deck is not well sealed at the house or does not slope properly. I,m not sure how successful it would be to seal the surface. Maybe a high solids Silane or Siloxane would help. I think there may be a more suitable product for horizontal surfaces, but can't recall now. From the look of those I-beams they may be around far longer than the patio. It could take 30 to 50 years (possibly less) for corrosion to be a structural concern, but rust jacking could cause some damage to the patio. BTW, what is the point of this anyway. High water table?

I see some grading and drainage issues (downspouts, sump pump). Based on the age you are probably looking at replacing the furnace, AC, and roof soon. Could be looking at new windows in the near future also. Expect a wet crawl space and check carefully for rotted floor joists, beams, etc. Looks like a lot of neglect. In short, if the price is not well below the market, it may not be a deal.

It is either an electric doorstop or a baseboard mounted wire extender. ...Or Kibbel will know what it is.

Hard to tell what is is looking at the photos on my phone. Could it be very worn asphalt saturated fiberglass?

Another option may be to insulate the water, tighten up the basement (air infiltration) and put a 5 gallon electric water heater near the bathroom in series with the hot water supply.

In my area you cannot bury organic construction materials. Trees? I don't know. It also generates methane gas as it decays.

I was thinking of tight and we'll insulated. Not real easy or inexpensive, but I would go that way to the extent practical. Floor heat would be a good way to go. Insulation below and at the perimeter would be necessary, but worthwhile anyway. There would be quite a lag between turning on the heat and coming up to temperature, but may not be a big issue if the temperature is not turned down too low and working at 55 to 60 should be fine. Maybe lower with warm feet.

John, I see that the building is not insulated. Do you heat it? When I retire I would like to build a building for my hobbies. I am thinking about the best way (meaning cheapest) way to heat it.

More likely a pinhole in the weld. I would it might need to be repaired or replaced at any time. I'm not sure who would properly evaluate it. Anything you do to clean it up may cause it to leak.

If that does not work out, you may be able to add a section break at the beginning of your document and use the cover page format above the section break. That should retain you cover page format.

Hard to see the details, but it looks like crap to me. Probably a lot wrong with the design and construction details, but many poor site built trusses work because many roofs may never see a full design load.

Thanks Jim. I don't recall seeing the beaded Hardiplank, but I looked at photos of it before posting. The Hardiplank bead looks like it may be more rounded and the groove looks more defined or deeper than this siding. Are you familiar with the beaded Hardiplank? (sounds like I'm talking about a rare breed of bird).

I don't see much fiber cement or hardboard siding in my area. Is this Hardiplank? The beading does not look like their style. I don't think is matches LP Smartside either. Is it one of those or something else?

Depends a lot on the location. I the Philadelphia and surrounding area aluminum wiring was seldom used.

I'm curious whether the pipe in the first photo that connects below the trap is for a vent?

It looks like the insulation board expanded and buckled upward.

I was going to say trash disposal well.

My best guess is mid 1950's to early 1960's.

I'd say that there is a problem.

I have seen similar failures that occurred when a suitable gap was not left below the windows. As the framing shrinks the window sill presses down on the brick veneer. This sometimes causes the sills to crush and other times displaces the brick.

Look at the IRC. M1805.2 or around there. It states that the connector should be flush with the inside face of the liner.

Also never saw one. Maybe a transformer for low voltage lighting.

I did not look too closely, but it looked to me like the trim is separate from the window and snaps in place.