mjr6550

I saw this window trim today on a recently built house. I was doing a structural inspection, so I did not take time to look at it closely. Can anyone identify the brand? It looks good, from about 100 yards away. Maybe Lego will get into the business next.

Heat detector. The ones I have seen were usually part of an old Honeywell system.

If that is an old cloth covered rubber cord it may hiss and spit when you plug it in.

Proper installation is probably more important than band. I do prefer the major brands because the installers typically have better training. When I replaced my system about 8 years ago I went with Rheem. At the time they has a modulating furnace that had been out for a number of years and had a good track record. The furnace and two-stage AC have been trouble free. At the same time a friend went with the same system based on my research. We really have not discussed his system, but he is still a friend, so I guess his system has also been fine. Contractors on an HVAC forum also had good things to say about Rheem. I got an estimate from the same contractor for Trane equipment. It was significantly more expensive.

The close up photos are much better, and they make it clear that the roofing is shot.

I would say it is shot. It would be helpful to know the age. I assume the photos are from a drone. They look good, but a few closeups, even from a good telephoto lens, may be more helpful. The second photo from the last probably shows the shingles best at the left side of the photo. One more thing, if the shingles were installed directly on plywood sheathing it is a bad installation.

When I see these systems it is not uncommon for them to only control some lights. I also see portions of the systems abandoned. I don't think a lot of electricians understand the systems or know that parts are available.

I agree with Jim. The age of the equipment does not matter. At least the wire in insulated. I see many old installation with two conductor and an uninsulated ground. That was permitted using SEC, but not NM.

That is poor workmanship. And I suspect that is the least of the problems. This has the look of an installation where nothing is correct.

It looks like shrinkage cracking, but I don't why some of the cracks are in a square pattern.

Regardless of freezing, I believe the IRC requires one minimum 3" vent. However, its an old house. I doubt I would have mentioned it.

Programmable lawnmower.

Where does the drain go? Discharge should be visible per IRC.

I agree that the soot could be from any number of things. But, I do tend to see soot stains above glass doors when it has been apparent that they burn fires with the doors closed. That is also when I tend to see creosote in the flue. Maybe minor fires in flue cause the conditions they say are present, but I am only familiar with major damage from chimney fires.

On one hand, they look fine. However, I was hired as an engineer to state that they are fine. Nothing is that easy for engineers. Considering the very narrow webs and the lack of any blocking or bridging, I question how they would perform if truly loaded to a design load, or with a concentrated load. Also, I question the performance should a fire occur. they may perform far worst than I-joists, which now have special requirements for protection from fire.

I agree with both of you. Getting an unbiased opinion may be hard. It seems like chimney sweeps/contractors want to line every flue. Most home inspectors probably won't want to give an opinion. I have not has time to look into this. I don't know what info is available regarding mortar joints and fires. The photos are not great quality either.

1975 house. I have never seen this before. I could not find any markings on the joists. The odd cross-section makes me think they were manufactured for some other purpose and were surplus. Anybody seen these or have an idea what they may be?

I received a report with photos from my niece who lives in MI. The report indicates that there has been a chimney fire. My niece bought the house recently, so I have not history. This is a fireplace flue. No wood stove presently installed. The fireplace does have glass doors. Soot staining on the brick above the firebox says to me that someone might have been using the fireplace with the doors closed. any thoughts on whether a liner is needed? The contractor is proposing installing a cast ceramic (Fireguard) liner for about $1400.

I think it is true. I also think he will save 25 cents a year (give or take).

Townhouses are typically considered a separate building and would require a fire separation all (I believe one hour is acceptable under certain conditions, but 2 hours is standard-not positive). A typical gypsum party wall is 2" thick. In condo building sometimes attic spaces extend over more than one unit. This depend upon the size of the attic. There can be draft-stopping walls between firewalls. In a modern building 5/8" would not be used in a firewall. I believe it would be ok in a draft-stopping wall. Whenever I see something non-standard regarding firewalls I have to look up the details because I don't deal with them often enough.

As others have stated, windows are not self-flashing. A gap (typically 1/4"), backer rod and caulk are needed, along with head flashing. Windows with integral flanges intended for use with vinyl siding are not suitable for stucco. They are WRONG. I believe some manufacturers supply filler strips for these, but I have not seen any documentation about that recently.

I inspected some electrical repairs today performed due to concerns found by a home inspector. There had been two tandem breakers in a main panel that were not permitted. An electrician moved the two hot conductors to two new breakers installed in an existing sub panel. This was done by splicing wires to the hot conductors and running them through flexible plastic conduit to the sub panel. A single ground wire was also run between the panels. The neutral conductors were left in the main panel. Is this wrong? It seems like 303.3 says it is. Any other references?

Not great workmship, but does not look like much of a problem. I would also question (and probably note) the use of the connector on the hub of the elbow. The link below indicates they are approved for use on plain-end pipe. One ASTM standard applies to underground installation. The report says above ground use is subject to approval by the AHJ. http://www.icc-es-pmg.org/Listing_Direc ... 1117.pdfan

I would be concerned that if the elbow was installed out of alignment such that it separated at the outer joint, then the inner joints could also be damaged.

Attaching plywood or OSB gusset plates to each side of the joint is probably the best approach. That is the same repair typically used for damaged truss joints.