Bill Kibbel

Pretty common here. I carry a key.

Set the blower to continuous.

Some older condo communities around here have them with an audible alarm and a red light on the exterior of the unit.

I had an issue when I first encountered the GE countdown timer. I think it gets confused when you push several buttons in a short amount of time. I just pressed and held the large bypass button and it cleared the confusion. I now operate only 1 button for a quick check. If it doesn't work at all, it's probably because the ground wire didn't get connected.

Too little info given. I'll assume the duct above is the return air duct since you said the filter was on top. It's obviously not a direct vent furnace. Even with a louvered door, combustion byproducts can be pulled out of the system and into the return air opening of the furnace. Also, the louvered door was intended for replacement air for combustion - it's not a large return vent. I'd guess the lazy-ass contractor replaced a furnace without bothering to connect it to the existing return duct system.

3002598T - The first digit is the year. That unit was manufactured in 2003 or 2013. The remaining numbers are the serial #. T = manufactured in Thailand.

The bond pattern of the brick clearly shows it's 2 wythes. How could anyone that works on masonry buildings not anticipate that the support over openings isn't going to be just under the outer wythe?

A power vent water heater isn't exactly a 'high efficiency' appliance so the vent requirements are a bit different. Power Vent terminations should be at least 36" above any 'forced air inlet' within 10'. I think a HRV could be considered a forced air inlet - if that's the intake. Power Vent terminations should be at least 4 feet below, 4 feet horizontally from or 1 foot above any door, window or other air inlet. I think the louvered vent is for a dryer. Power vent water heaters usually come with a 40-45 degree PVC vent termination with screen insert.

We bought a house that the seller disclosed unearthly paranormal activity. I think my immediate comment was "They better pay rent".

Click to Enlarge 83.3 KB "Slightly haunted. Nothing serious, though. e.g. The sounds of phantom footsteps. A strange knocking sound followed by a very quiet (hardly noticeable, even) scream at 3:13am, maybe once a week. Twice a week tops. And the occasional ghastly visage lurking behind you in the bathroom mirror. Even still, this occurs very rarely and only in the second floor bathroom."

Boric acid is used here for treating and preserving old exposed hewn-log buildings. The powder is really cheap, like 3 bucks a pound. I would think that if it's labelled for roaches, it's the same stuff. Probably 95-100%. I don't know if anyone still does it, but folks used to make up solutions with ethylene glycol (anti-freeze) as the carrier to treat old timbers.

It's only used by members of PAABI and whoever those members trained. You will not find the term used incorrectly anywhere else. Sure, the deterioration is common when the hewn log ends are set INTO the foundation. That's not the case we're commenting on here, based on the pics in the OP.

The joists in the picture aren't set in pockets - they're bearing on sill timbers. "Pocket rot" is not the correct term for deterioration where the joists enter the foundation. I remember the guy in SE PA that abducted the term and applied it to the common condition in old stone homes. Pocket rot is a specific fungus that causes damage in timbers leaving small voids. If the logs are hewn on top down to the heartwood and the bearing ends are too, there's rarely an issue.

Did you measure? 12"x16"?

Yes, but I think there were some small ice tray compartments before then. I'll ask dad. I think sulfur dioxide was the common refrigerant at that time.

GE "Monitor Top" manufactured 1925 - mid 30s.

I've levered and shimmed quite a few. I've also found many that work just fine - even some that are way off. If'n it aint hammerin' leave it be.

It depends on how fat the person is. The IRC specifically requires shower doors to open outward. I've never seen it in the NJ plumbing subcode.

It's a boat builders thing.

It was also common practice to pass the coal stove pipe through a ceiling to provide a little heat to the space above.

Typical old style collar for a coal stove pipe passing through a floor.

There's no stone foundation (below grade) anywhere that doesn't have stuff growing on it. Please read Tom's post above (6).

I really like #s 3-6 in Tom's post (6). I don't use much boilerplate, but that would be some good stuff to put in reports.

The picture in the OP looks like most of the thousands of stone foundations I've seen although several hundred look worse. It's completely normal. http://historicbldgs.com/stonefoundations.htm Most of my clients get it but some folks just aren't the right type to live in and maintain an old house. These are the ones that call in a panic asking me to rush over and see their "crumbling foundation", when it's only some random flaking of the coating. I'm starting to just ignore people that only want us to confirm their fear of mold is valid. I don't have patience to unbrainwash homeowners or even discuss it anymore with inspectors that fall for the crap spewed at the mold-is-gold seminars.

What is the code for "around here"? Sani-tees can't be on their side for drainage. What's the prohibition for using them on their side for venting? How do you vent a toilet through a sink?