Bill Kibbel

Durock would need to built up to a 2" thickness. Micore only needs to be 1/2".

The flame color indicates incomplete combustion. Probably not enough air in the mix. Is the air shutter on that burner completely closed?

That's really interesting -- but I don't think an apostrophe is the real problem here.

I wouldn't replace it unless/until it needed expensive repairs or unavailable parts. Dad's 1948 General Motors Frigidaire isn't real efficient and it's noisy, but still keeps things really cold. And look up from above the burner. Should be done every fall when serviced. It'll stop some gravel.

The folks I know with solar panels keep them clear of snow at all times -- they seem to work better.

The same post in 4 seperate discussions smells like spam to me. TIJ is for inspectors of buildings, not for product developers or marketing. Try Shark Tank.

I don't think you'll find anything using that phrase. The applicable code reference should be in a section somewhere below the list of prohibited trap designs. It states the maximum horizontal distance allowed between the fixture outlet and trap inlet. In the adopted codes in my area, the max is 30".

At the end, there is a scene showing a conversation similar to some I've had.

Hey Rob. I've only pulled out a drone probably about 3-4 times a year for the last 5-6 years. I started with the DJI Phantom 3 Pro. It's like a pterodactyl, scaring kids and pets. I replaced it with the DJI Spark and was impressed how well the little thing handles better, stable hovering in wind and takes better pics. When the batteries no longer held a charge recently, I discovered it's discontinued and reasonably priced batts are pretty scarce. So I got the DJI Mini SE for about the cost of 3 Spark batteries. It does almost everything I'm used too, except the warning sensor for being too close to objects. It's lighter weight and the flight time per battery is incredible. I just used it to get inside a church bell tower that had no other access and also got a good pick inside of an unlined chimney that had no access to view from the bottom. I'm likely to use it more often now. I can still climb up most very steep roofs, but coming back down, my left knee just started painfully popping out. It's a handy tool. Who else uses one?

My experiences in many locations have shown that the meter box/can location has to be approved by the Power Co before they set the meter. They publish guidelines of service installation requirements but some don't mention meter location. If there was no service upgrade with that addition, the PoCo wouldn't have been involved. Attached buildings in old downtowns and historic districts almost always have the meters in the basement. These include many mixed use buildings with multiple meters. Some PoCos require the purchase of a padlock (from them for a ridiculous price) for unscheduled access into the building . Many other older buildings with inside meters are often required to relo it outside when there is a service change. I wouldn't want one of those defective new "smart" meters that spontaneously ignite inside the building.

I'm a bit limited on the max ladder length my car can carry.

I don't know of any requirement - if the closet is contained within the garage and is not considered an opening into the residence.

Could these be the same Shaw sinks that were in the UK for like a century? Those had a lifetime warranty. Crazing would definitely be a manufacturer's defect.

Hi Don, The above is very honest feedback. People visit sites to see and meet the inspector they might be hiring. Who is your "team"? What are each of their qualifications and experience? It doesn't even mention what area. It doesn't show a location to indicate it's a legit business. No need to tell people why a home inspection is needed. They already know and are searching for a competent candidate. There's nothing in there that would ever result in your site showing up in a search - ever. Also, your meta tags are useless for search indexing. Typo and punctuation. Flyers stapled to phone poles might get better results.

That's structural terra cotta. historicbldgs.com/terra_cotta.html If it is vitrified (and not just shiny from being wet) and the long edges are rounded, it could be telephone tile. historicbldgs.com/telephone_tile.html If it's not vitrified, then the shell is quite brittle. Ask your contractor to show you how well he drills the sides of flower pots. I've seen plenty of attempts at drilling - for termite treatments and installing anchors - that have blown out very large sections. I don't much care for adding interior drain systems. I never thought letting even more water into a basement and constantly pumping it back out is a good idea. At best, it's the absolute last resort after exhausting every other possible solution. The system, and even the installation, has caused serious problems in some buildings. I've had plenty of expert witness jobs that are from waterproofing contractors irreversibly damaging old building foundations, including catastrophic failures. These systems are intended for modern foundations with pretty standard footings.

Hi "Silvia" I don't know what brands of paint are available in Dubai.

Bradford started out manufacturing coal-fired range boilers in the early 1880s . They merged with White in the late 1960s. That water heater is probably from around 1960.

That's a discontinued tiny camping lantern. I think it's completely useless for what we do.

I always loosen up after a few drinks.

If it's got a collar on top to clamp a pipe directly, it's probably intended to be a direct exhaust/direct vent installation. If it's set up as an atmospheric vent system, that's probably the wrong model WH.

I've never seen that type. I would guess they're extraction fan terminations (bath fans). What's the pipe diameter? What did they smell like?

Some carbon is added for additional UV resistance. Much of the gray PVC I've seen used as DWV is schedule 80. You can drive a truck over it.

It could be, or the boiler has been drained and refilled or skimmed recently and they didn't bother to clean the glass. Dirty glass is usually way, way down the list of all the crap wrong with a majority of steam boiler installations.

The drainage system will pull the soil out from under the foundation. I probably have hundreds of photos of failed foundations as a result of "waterproofing" contractors installing these footing drainage sytems adjacent to foundations that have no footings. Some of the failures were catastrophic. In my area, a majority of basement water problems can be solved by correcting all the drainage, grading, gutter and downspout issues.