Brandon Whitmore

Just for fun.... I see: Missing cold water shut off. Missing draft hood. Missing equilateral attachment at joints. Lack of proper vent/draft hood clearances to combustibles (pipe). Probable combustion air issue since you need 50 cu. ft. of air space for every 1k btu's of equip. rating. This water heater is probably 40k btu's and I doubt that "hallway" has 2k cu. ft. of space. Missing seismic restraints/ earthquake straps if required there. Missing discharge pipe. Is the inlet/outlet really reduced to 1/2"? But hey, it's working just fine, right?

I should have queried: I wonder why pre-cast foundations are more of an E. coast thing......

I've already got two near full time jobs, might as well shoot for a third? Unfortunately, it doesn't look like OR is on their list of Hot License Opportunity areas.

I wonder why they're more of an E. coast thing?

It's wrong. (as indicated by Peter's posting) It doesn't really seem to matter which ties in first with that configuration. Kick the water heater up, and then turn on an induced draft furnace, and you'll likely find heavy spillage at the draft hood.

You'll need to provide a model number for any real help.

It's an issue in my opinion. I say it's within 10' on a horizontal plane, and heated air rises, right?.

N1104.9.2 is the reference you need from the most recent IRC.....

That's about the perfect pressure for a good showerin' I've never seen water press. that high at a residence.

210.4 Multiwire Branch Circuits. (A) General. Branch circuits recognized by this article shall be permitted as multiwire circuits. A multiwire circuit shall be permitted to be considered as multiple circuits. All conductors of a multiwire branch circuit shall originate from the same panelboard or similar distribution equip- ment. FPN: A 3-phase, 4-wire, wye-connected power system used to supply power to nonlinear loads may necessitate that the power system design allow for the possibility of high harmonic currents on the neutral conductor. (B) Disconnecting Means. Each multiwire branch circuit shall be provided with a means that will simultaneously disconnect all ungrounded conductors at the point where the branch circuit originates. © Line-to-Neutral Loads. Multiwire branch circuits shall supply only line-to-neutral loads. Exception No. 1: A multiwire branch circuit that supplies only one utilization equipment. Exception No. 2: Where all ungrounded conductors of the multiwire branch circuit are opened simultaneously by the branch-circuit overcurrent device. FPN: See 300.13(B) for continuity of grounded conductor on multiwire circuits. (D) Grouping. The ungrounded and grounded conductors of each multiwire branch circuit shall be grouped by wire ties or similar means in at least one location within the panelboard or other point of origination. Exception: The requirement for grouping shall not apply if the circuit enters from a cable or raceway unique to the circuit that makes the grouping obvious.

Marc, Don't you mean that the eave flashing should be beneath the underlayment?

They probably omitted them. Code only requires 1:300 when there's a balanced system, and 1:150 when not. My guess- they don't have enough ventilation.

Yeah, I think you were laughing so hard you failed to get a clear picture too

Norm, when you plug the disposal cord back in, does it start grinding or do nothing until you turn the switch on?

That's allowed, and they aren't required to be GFCI protected...

Take a mini excavator, slide the concrete out slightly away from the wall, replace the rot, stick flashing in between the concrete and new wall, and use the excavator to push the patio back into place.

Depends on where the manufacturer determines their "cooking surface" is located...

Pipe support requirements vary by size of the pipe-- it should be easy to pull up for whatever code you use. The DWV system must be sloped to drain.

I see that same look below rusted galvanized vents and flashing...

It's that color because there's incomplete combustion due to a dirty burner. I pull and clean those burners pretty much every day, and can go from awful looking flames to perfect blue flames with just a quick cleaning.

I don't know what caused that, but it's called the "shoulder" if that helps you at all during your research.

Don't buy it. The last UF lite I bought was crap.

I keep hearing about them there steel shims, but haven't seen any, at least not that I can remember.

The plywood may not be old siding; it's probably just the wall sheathing. Could you tell Mike? What was visible from the attic, if accessible? If the plywood "siding" was original, then it was improperly installed since it's too close to the roof line. Every installation detail I have ever seen indicates that step flashing needs to be installed in between the siding and wall sheathing. If there is step flashing run in behind the plywood, then it's less of an issue, but still wrong. The plywood is most likely going to rot out over time.

Not a chance......