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Brandon Whitmore

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Everything posted by Brandon Whitmore

  1. I did just see a 40 gal. water heater w/ a 75,000 btu burner the other day. I'm not sure how much storage is required for the heaters though.......
  2. That's been my experience. I just don't see them cause much of an issue in this area unless there's some serious moisture issues to go along with them.
  3. He used a nice shingle stretcher as well......(exposure issue?)
  4. The gap is at the gutter edge (fascia) as I suspected. It's providing some ventilation, but will probably allow small pests/ insects to enter.
  5. In these parts, asbestos is not something that home inspectors are required to report on-- is it different up in Canada?
  6. On older houses around these parts, there's a gap in between the sheathing and gutter, and daylight shows through. Could that be what you're seeing?
  7. Robert, how positive are you that these are vents? Did you see the pipes running through from the interior?
  8. Definitely not the alumi-conn connectors (picture in link below). They were standard push wire connectors with no screws. I've got close up shots of the connectors I found if anyone is interested...... http://www.kinginnovation.com/pdfs/CPSC ... No.516.pdf
  9. The fan switch is set to a hi and low setting to kick the fan on and off (2 temp. dials) at set temps.. There are combo fan and hi limit switches though.... The hi (thermal limit) sits in the heat exchanger compartment, and is only set to trip at a higher temp. than should exist at the Hx. There's a auxillary limit switch in the fan compartment on downdraft furnaces when the blower sits above the Hx.
  10. I think that's the fan switch.
  11. The hi limit has been bypassed (what Jim said). Either the hi limit (likely bi- metal) switch was bad and failed in the open position, or the furnace was overheating, causing the limit to open. The fan switch will be 120v, while the hi limit will be 24v. The 24v. side should be wired in series so that the burners will shut off when a safety switch actuates.
  12. I don't inspect septic systems, exclude them from my report, and don't go stomping around trying to find out if lids are secure. I guess I could be sued still, which would be ridiculous in my opinion. I'm curious as to whether the inspector was paid extra to inspect the septic system........
  13. Les, You may want to check out the posting date....
  14. The flashing is run short at the ends and to make matters worse, it appears to slope back towards the wall. I'd recommend opening the weep holes back up and caulking the heck out of everything. I'd be hesitant to recommend the removal of caulk when it may be all that is keeping the water out of the wall.....
  15. I'd hire the best inspector you can find to go back through the house........... I'm sure Jim Katen will go down there for the right price[:-magnify, but I have a feeling there's some great inspectors in that area. Oh, and you don't need to fix open grounded GFCI receptacles.........they're safe.
  16. According to James_Hardie's comment above, they recommended moderate contact or a gap with caulk from the beginning.......
  17. Wow-- back in the beginning...... I never got an entire set of instructions like I wanted. I did find this PDF from Certainteed that references a bunch of 1990's standards from ASTM: http://www.cookcountylumber.com/pdfs/specialty_products/certainteed/architecturalspec.pdf
  18. I'm a union pipefitter now........... well, I'm union, and I do a lot of pipe work. Street elbows are known to be problematic, and would have been a bad choice. Our company policy is to not use them at all, and from my experience of running around fixing leaks day in and day out, they shouldn't be used.
  19. Hi Ken, If you look at Peter's post above, you will see some from 2001. What year are you looking for?
  20. I'm pretty sure Jim is spot on. Had they turned that first elbow they would have eliminated half the fittings, but the head would have been lower.
  21. Acid rain and pressure washers...........
  22. Thanks Bill, Gives me something to go on..... Ideal doesn't allow the use of aluminum conductors, but these push in connectors were made by someone else. Unfortunately, there weren't any markings on them that gave a manuf. or model. What's odd is that one side of the duplex had all push in connectors at outlets, in the panel, etc. while the other side of the duplex was all untouched from original.
  23. I haven't run into these splice devices for a while, and can't remember what they are called. I need to look them up and find out if they are an acceptable repair for AL. branch circuit wiring. Anybody? Click to Enlarge 54.84 KB
  24. That's pretty much been my experience as well. I can't stand wearing my Korkers (either pair), but put them on due to necessity after close calls due to what you describe above. If it has been really dry for several days, and the roof hasn't been oiled in years, I'll walk a shake roof without them under about 6/12, otherwise, I put them on no matter what. If a roof is as bad as in the pictures posted, I won't walk most of it, because they will crack, and because it's pointless. That applies to comp. shingles as well.....
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