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Brandon Whitmore

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Everything posted by Brandon Whitmore

  1. The intake pipe isn't required. The exhaust/ condensate set up in the OP is all jacked up.
  2. The only time you possibly shouldn't test the furnaces is if there's no AC and the t- stats can't call for heat due to elevated indoor temperatures. Some probably just jump the furnaces.....
  3. I would have written up this installation as a mess that should be repaired....
  4. That looks pretty jacked up to me. I wonder if the contractor they sent out for the inspection was also the installer.
  5. I guess I should have actually looked at the pictures. Problem is, I've been having trouble opening them for some time now. When I click on one to enlarge it, it takes 30 seconds to open, which is way too long for my attention span.
  6. Why are you saying that vinyl siding can't be removed mid wall without damage? They make a tool specifically so that siding can be re- installed after removing it "mid wall". Since I know you know this, it's just got me curious.
  7. If it's a newer house w/ vinyl siding, it's probably a wood chase chimney. And the cheap answer is no if that's the case.
  8. The T connection is up high, so I wouldn't be concerned w/ spillage @ the water heater's draft hood. It's questionable as to whether a 12" rise is required before a change in direction above a water heater- some manufacturer's require the rise, while others don't seem to do so. The vent needs to be secured to the draft hood, and the hood should be secured to the water heater. It would be nice to see some additional support for the vent-- did it feel secure? So basically, it's a crappy looking installation, but I bet it is functional...
  9. Metal over comp. shingles isn't an issue. I write up any exposed fastener installed metal roof I see as not recommended for a residence. Did you let your customer follow you up on the roof?
  10. That's the flexible, approved vent material I'm used to seeing.
  11. If it's the sole return air vent for the home, and it's closer than 10' from the stove, then it's wrong. I just wrote one up yesterday. It was placed on the wall right behind the wood stove. That, and it was common vented w/ the furnace.
  12. Nope-- can't be. Cause "Everything's New!" and Luston's aren't.
  13. We have it here: g2418 Cross reference that to whatever IRC you are working from.....
  14. Thanks Jim, I had this same issue at my house, and the knocking only occurred when I flushed the hall bathroom toilet.
  15. So why does the noise only occur when a toilet is flushed, but not when water is run elsewhere?
  16. They use those push button air pressure switches w/ no timer all of the time, so I don't see why you'd have to have the timer switch. Code wise, I don't know, because I don't think I've ever seen a snap/toggle switched used.
  17. That looks they originally intended on using this panel as a "sub" panel, with the service equipment elsewhere. If that's the case, it's all screwed up...
  18. Do any of you keep a list of dryer manufacturer's who approve/ disapprove of the use of flexible metal (not semi- rigid) metal transition duct material. Several years ago, I couldn't find any dryer manufacturer's who allowed flexible metal, but at least one does now, which has thrown me for a loop. Here's the one.
  19. A damp rag will wipe off a large percentage of that build up. Just let your customers know that they shouldn't be using ammonia based glass cleaners.
  20. It's definitely caused by condensation build up in the vent. However, it's not necessarily a venting issue. It's possible there has been a history of the furnace short cycling due to design issues, lack of proper maintenance, etc.
  21. On a ceramic tile floor, I'd recommend caulking the toilet down to help keep it in place.
  22. I can't tell you how many times I've found defects during my walk and talk that I missed during my initial inspection. Never anything major, but a second go 'round at the end never hurts.
  23. Hi Mike, I believe you are correct-- my bad.
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