Mike Lamb Posted April 20, 2015 Report Share Posted April 20, 2015 What are the mold killing chemicals/products of choice? I am reading about products that are EPA registered but I don't know if that is an endorsement. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robert Jones Posted April 27, 2015 Report Share Posted April 27, 2015 Kilz, Concrobium(SP?) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marc Posted April 27, 2015 Report Share Posted April 27, 2015 Borax, bleach. Kilz doesn't kill mold...does it? Good for priming afterwards though. Marc Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Katen Posted April 27, 2015 Report Share Posted April 27, 2015 Timbor, Boracare. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mlparham Posted April 27, 2015 Report Share Posted April 27, 2015 Hydrogen peroxide is better than bleach. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Katen Posted April 28, 2015 Report Share Posted April 28, 2015 Hydrogen peroxide is better than bleach. Really? Why? What concentration? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mlparham Posted April 28, 2015 Report Share Posted April 28, 2015 Hydrogen peroxide is better than bleach. Really? Why? What concentration? Really? Yes. Why? No toxic fumes. Concentration? Three percent is fine. Put it in a spray bottle, spray, let set for 10 minutes, scrub, then wipe clean. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Katen Posted April 29, 2015 Report Share Posted April 29, 2015 I'll give it a try. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hausdok Posted May 4, 2015 Report Share Posted May 4, 2015 The folks at BoraCare have developed a whole arsenal of stuff to fight wood rot, insects and mold. Check 'em out! http://nisuscorp.com/builders/products/BORA-CARE Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zarajohn Posted May 19, 2015 Report Share Posted May 19, 2015 Hydrogen peroxide is better than bleach. Really? Why? What concentration? Really? Yes. Why? No toxic fumes. Concentration? Three percent is fine. Put it in a spray bottle, spray, let set for 10 minutes, scrub, then wipe clean. HELLO, One reason is that bleach cannot totally murder mold developing in permeable materials. The chlorine in bleach cannot enter into porous surfaces for example, drywall or wood. The chlorine is left on the surface of porous materials and only the water component of the bleach is absorbed into the material, giving more moisture for the mold to feed on. A portion of the mold at first surface may be killed however the roots of the mold are left in place importance the mold before long returns, abandoning you in a cycle of rehashed dying. Maybe this is the reason a few individuals accept that spraying bleach on mold doesn't affect it however rather just bleaches its shading so you can no more see it. Another weakness of bleach is that it can harm the materials it's utilized on as it is an unforgiving, corrosive chemical. Chlorine bleach also gives off harsh fumes and it even produces toxic gas when mixed with ammonia. There are more secure options, for example, borax or vinegar which don't create risk fumes or leave behind toxic residue. Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron75 Posted July 9, 2015 Report Share Posted July 9, 2015 There are various home made solutions which one can use to kill mold, I would recommend you read this : http://housinginfoblog.com/how-to-kill-mold-and-mildew/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Katen Posted July 9, 2015 Report Share Posted July 9, 2015 . . . One reason is that bleach cannot totally murder mold developing in permeable materials. The chlorine in bleach cannot enter into porous surfaces for example, drywall or wood. The chlorine is left on the surface of porous materials and only the water component of the bleach is absorbed into the material, giving more moisture for the mold to feed on. . . . Does anyone out there have a reference that supports this claim? Sounds like BS. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marc Posted July 9, 2015 Report Share Posted July 9, 2015 It doesn't say precisely not to use it on porous surfaces. I've used it on my unpainted bath walls and it worked without problems. 1. Avoid prolonged breathing of vapor. Use in well-ventilated areas. Open windows and turn on fans before use. If vapors bother you, leave the room. For sensitive skin or prolonged use, wear gloves. 2. Directions for removing mildew stains with Tilex? Mold & Mildew Remover: a. Turn sprayer nozzle to spray position.b. Spray on glazed ceramic tile, grout, tubs, fiberglass, shower doors, vinyl shower curtains, sinks and no-wax floors. Allow mildew stains to disappear, then rinse well. c. Rinse immediately after use on rubber or vinyl, bathmats and items such as shower curtains. 3. To disinfect and kill mold and mildew on hard nonporous surfaces: Spray surface such as tile until thoroughly wet, let stand five minutes and rinse. For heavy soil, pre-cleaning is required. This product kills Staphylococcus aureus (Staph), Streptococcus pyogenes (Strep) and Trichophyton mentagrophytes (Athlete's Foot Fungus). 4. Do not use on wood or painted surfaces, or on fabric. Avoid prolonged contact with metal and old porcelain. 5. Do not combine with household cleaning products. Mixing household chemicals can release hazardous gases. Marc Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Raymond Posted July 9, 2015 Report Share Posted July 9, 2015 . . . One reason is that bleach cannot totally murder mold developing in permeable materials. The chlorine in bleach cannot enter into porous surfaces for example, drywall or wood. The chlorine is left on the surface of porous materials and only the water component of the bleach is absorbed into the material, giving more moisture for the mold to feed on. . . . Does anyone out there have a reference that supports this claim? Sounds like BS. I got a very similar story from a PHD mycologist at a CE class. He also gave me a sales pitch on air sampling equipment, and a certificate stating I am an expert mold inspector...so take it with a grain of salt. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kurt Posted July 9, 2015 Report Share Posted July 9, 2015 Sounds like a Doctor for Hire. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rdhutch Posted July 10, 2015 Report Share Posted July 10, 2015 We use Timbor or Boracare. Both are very effective in combating mold and Powder Post Beetles. Read the labels, mixing instructions are critical, especially in cold weather. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric B Posted July 22, 2015 Report Share Posted July 22, 2015 Timbor's label states that it does not treat or prevent mold. Boracare data sheet has no information specific to the treatment of mold. Foster's products such as their 40-80 or Fiberlock's Shockwave on the other hand are EPA registered and specified for the treatment of mold. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill Kibbel Posted July 22, 2015 Report Share Posted July 22, 2015 Morgan is correct about hydrogen peroxide - but not the 3% from the pharmacy. It's effective on porous surface stuff too without damage or residue. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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