John Dirks Jr Posted March 10, 2008 Report Share Posted March 10, 2008 A friend of mine wants to add insulation to his attic that already has some up there. He needs the batts without the vapor barrier but he said they are more expensive than the ones with the vapor barrier. Would peeling the vapor barrier off of the less expensive batts be a viable option? Have any of you ever tried this? I had leftover R25 batts when I did my attic and I split them down the middle to add extra coverage in my attic. It wasn't a big deal really. I know it would be time consuming to carefully remove the backings but is there a technical reason why it should not be done? He cliams he can get R30 with backing cheaper than R25 without. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chad Fabry Posted March 10, 2008 Report Share Posted March 10, 2008 Just slice it up some once it's placed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Dirks Jr Posted March 10, 2008 Author Report Share Posted March 10, 2008 Originally posted by Chad Fabry Just slice it up some once it's placed. Ok then. You mean lay it down with the vapor backing facing up then slice the backing up to allow it to breath? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chad Fabry Posted March 11, 2008 Report Share Posted March 11, 2008 Sure. I don't think you need to make it look like Carrie's mother; a slice every 18 inches or so perpendicular to its length or a long slice down the middle will be OK. Fiberglass sucks at stopping air movement and it'll dry readily. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
inspector57 Posted March 11, 2008 Report Share Posted March 11, 2008 Don't leave the paper backing exposed, it is combustible. Peeling it would be easier and better IMHO. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ken Meyer Posted March 11, 2008 Report Share Posted March 11, 2008 A few years ago I added more attic insulation in some knee wall spaces, and I remember getting some Owens Corning fiberglass insulation that was encased in a plastic that allowed air to pass through it, so you could add it on top of existing insulation. It was very easy to apply as well. I didn't see it listed on their web site, maybe they don't make it anymore. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Dirks Jr Posted March 11, 2008 Author Report Share Posted March 11, 2008 Originally posted by inspector57 Don't leave the paper backing exposed, it is combustible. Peeling it would be easier and better IMHO. I don't think peeling it would be easier than slicing it. However, if the backing is combustable I agree with removing it for safety reasons. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Dirks Jr Posted March 11, 2008 Author Report Share Posted March 11, 2008 Originally posted by Ken Meyer A few years ago I added more attic insulation in some knee wall spaces, and I remember getting some Owens Corning fiberglass insulation that was encased in a plastic that allowed air to pass through it, so you could add it on top of existing insulation. It was very easy to apply as well. I didn't see it listed on their web site, maybe they don't make it anymore. Good idea but I bet the stuff you mention is even more expensive at that. Cost is the main factor. The goal is to keep it as low as possible. The extra labor is not a problem since he is doing it himself. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phillip Posted March 11, 2008 Report Share Posted March 11, 2008 A few year back we added insulation to Mommy house. It was cheaper at that time to have it blown than the cost of the batted insulation. The box stores will rent you a blower. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ken Meyer Posted March 11, 2008 Report Share Posted March 11, 2008 Maybe he could try this. http://www.instructables.com/id/Insulating-an-attic/ [:-bigeyes Or not. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scottpat Posted March 11, 2008 Report Share Posted March 11, 2008 I had to take a trip to Lowe's today so I made note to take a look at the insulation. I just left Lowe's and the price difference for insulation without Kraft paper backing was right at $3 per roll. Sorry, I can't see that it would be that great of savings when you compare the time and labor involved in removing it or slice and dicing it! At 20 rolls you would save only $60. I bet you can even find it cheaper. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
randynavarro Posted March 11, 2008 Report Share Posted March 11, 2008 When I built my home, I had the insulation installed by a contractor. His price was $300 more than what I could even buy the material for. It is a big house -- walls and attic insulated. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
inspector57 Posted March 11, 2008 Report Share Posted March 11, 2008 Get an estimate for loose fill blown installed. Last time I checked, I could get it installed cheaper than I could purchase the batts. I'm all for do-it-myself, but I won't pay for the privilege! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark P Posted March 12, 2008 Report Share Posted March 12, 2008 A few years ago I blew in cellulose in a house I was renovating. At the time Home Depot loaned me the machine for free if I purchased $200 in insulation. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Katen Posted March 12, 2008 Report Share Posted March 12, 2008 Originally posted by AHI A friend of mine wants to add insulation to his attic that already has some up there. He needs the batts without the vapor barrier but he said they are more expensive than the ones with the vapor barrier. Would peeling the vapor barrier off of the less expensive batts be a viable option? Have any of you ever tried this? I had leftover R25 batts when I did my attic and I split them down the middle to add extra coverage in my attic. It wasn't a big deal really. I know it would be time consuming to carefully remove the backings but is there a technical reason why it should not be done? He cliams he can get R30 with backing cheaper than R25 without. I'd just hire someone to blow it in. Saving $50 just wouldn't be worth it to me. That said, I've had occasion to peel the paper off of batts and I found that the fastest, easiest, and least wasteful way was to lay the batt paper side down on a work surface and use a machete to skin it. - Jim Katen, Oregon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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